Planet Granite is thrilled to announce we are hosting a Team of 2 Training Camp! This is an amazing opportunity to work with some of the best trainers in the climbing and fitness industry to help you hone your skills! Space is limited, so sign up early! All inquiries and requests to sign-up should go to Justen Sjong. For a little background on Team of 2, check out this presentation or their Facebook Page!
Kris Peters has trained some of the best names in climbing, such as Alex Johnson and Emily Harrington. And Justen, who many of us know from when he worked at PG, coaching and setting, has coached many athletes including Emily Harrington, Daniel Woods and Adam Stack – he’s an incredible climber, motivator and has a really keen eye for technique.
Team of 2 – Training Camp – Full Day
Thanks for taking interest in a new and exciting concept that incorporates the Technical, Mental and Physical aspects of climbing into a single program. We explore your climbing through these three different lenses. Thanks in advance! Justen Sjong & Kris Peters
Camp Topic: Power Endurance
Program Details This exciting training program incorporates classroom education and first hand experience with the skills needed to enhance your current level of Power Endurance. We will cover the following topics.
Art of Warming Up
Mistakes are Opportunities
Finding and Calming your Inner Beast
Dates & Locations July 20th at Sunnyvale from 8 AM to 5 PM
July 21st at San Francisco from 8 AM to 5 PM
Minimum Climbing Ability: 5.11+
Cost: $280 PG Members, $290 non-members
Expectations It’s very important to be upfront with our expectations while working together in the training camp. Since this program works as a group format we ask you to provide positive energy to the group. There are times that we can provide a quick fix where you might see gains right away. But, for most of us, progress takes hard work, time and patience. You can hope to have 30+ minutes of focused attention from each of us during this full day camp. Important note: when we explain an exercise, skill, drill or routine and it doesn’t make sense, please let us know and we’ll attempt to explain another way.
Show up 10 minutes before the Training Camp.
Warm up for ten minutes then head into the cycling room that will be used as a classroom.
In the Classroom, we will discuss the plan for the day in more detail.
Most plans will have the whole group split into smaller groups and rotate to each of the stations.
If you have feedback for Kris or Justen please send it our way. It’s very important that the Training Camp reach your expectations. If, we’re not relaying the information in a way that excites you to work on the routines or skills that need improvement, let us know!
Join us Earth Day, Monday April 22nd for lively presentation and Q&A with Sempervirens Fund Executive Director Reed Holderman.
PG Sunnyvale – 4/22 at 8pm
Since being founded in 1900, the Sempervirens Fund is California’s oldest land trust and the only organization exclusively devoted to permanently protecting the coastal redwood forests of the Santa Cruz Mountains. As many may remember, 70 California State Parks, including Castle Rock State Park, were threatened to to be closed due to budget cuts last year. We hosted a live auction fundraiser and with our $10,000 match, raised over $20,700 to help keep Castle Rock open. With these funds, Sempervirens was able to pledge $250,000, the amount needed to keep Castle Rock open one more year. Just this month, the State signed a deal to keep Castle Rock open through 2014, and hopefully until 2016, barring any unforeseen circumstances.
This is part of a bigger plan that Sempervirens envisions for a future Great Park, one that spans from San Mateo counties to Santa Cruz counties. Castle Rock is part of this Great Park.
“Our interest is getting people into the redwoods, getting rock climbers into this area,” Holderman said. “It’s in our best interests that, one, people get out in the property, and two, they have a good experience.”
Join Holderman this Monday as he presents the history of and plan for Castle Rock State Park, including the role that climbers play. Q&A to follow – bring your questions!
The Access Fund (AF) has just released a position paper on the newest draft of the Merced River Plan (MRP). The paper briefly mentions some of the major actions that the plan proposes, and highlights four specific areas that the Access Fund is urging the Yosemite Planners and National Park Service (NPS) to consider more in-depth. A link to the paper can be found here.
Comments are needed no later than April 30th, and you can comment via this webform HERE. We support the Access Fund’s position and urge you tocomment. The Access Fund has just released an easy letter writing tool to help you submit your feedback foundHERE.
Photo borrowed from nps.gov
While the plan does not affect Yosemite climbing directly, it does have potential, indirect ramifications down the line. In order to understand the possible long-term effects it is important to understand a little about what the Merced River Plan is and why the Access Fund is involved.
Essentially, portions of the Merced River are declared by Congress to be a National Wild and Scenic River, such as the part running through Yosemite Valley. This means the National Park Service has certain obligations to maintain and protect many of the natural qualities of the river, and they have attempted to implement a couple different plans over the years. Jumping ahead to today, the NPS is now on attempt number 3 to push through a plan that would put in place the adequate enhancements and protections to preserve the Merced’s natural awe and luster as well as do some much needed maintenance while they’re at it. So how does any of this affect us as climbers?
As climbers, we take trips to Yosemite to hike, to sightsee, and of course, to climb. In truth, anything that affects Yosemite will affect visitors, including climbers, and the variety of ways we use the beautiful valley. As the Access Fund’s paper points out, there are a few plans that DO deal directly with climbing in the Valley that will be coming down the pipeline. This is why we need to pay attention.
With all these plans, there are a number of parties who will be affected and all have their own vested interests. We, as climbers, are one of those parties but even we do not have common ground. Among us, there are pushes for more extreme measures (e.g. doing away with parking proposals, campsites near crags, etc). Well-intentioned as they may be, there may be possible downsides for pushing too far in the direction of our own interests. The unfortunate reality is that we’re dealing in the realm of politics.
The unspoken fear is that if we can’t help the NPS finally push a proposal through, Congress may pass a law over-riding the Park’s current plan that would likely increase commercialization and have negative impacts on the interests of climbers. The other possible problem with pulling too hard toward a more utopian plan is that climbers have been slowly making positive relationships with Yosemite Rangers and have a lot of momentum to lose in the following plans if we, fairly or unfairly, are made to look like mindless rabble-rousers.
All this aside, there is room for positive change within the latest MRP. The Access Fund has put out an open call to climbers to contact them with opinions, questions, concerns, and ideas pertaining to the upcoming draft. Look over the Access Fund points here andcomment here. At the risk of oversimplifying I see climbers as having three options: push for a more climber-centric plan now and risk losing valuable traction on upcoming plans that will directly effect us; work to have climber interests met in the current draft; or do nothing. If the latter finds you bivied under a street light outside of the new El Capitan gift shop – tough luck.
Sincere thanks to the Access Fund and Jason Keith for supplying us with mounds of information and taking the time to answer our multitudinous questions.
Fresh on the heels of Mark and Josh’s trip, Brian “Cuz” Hedrick left San Francisco for a week-long bouldering sojourn in Hueco Tanks State Park. Stopping only to bivy in Joshua Tree since time was precious and he was determined to make the most of the short trip. Arriving just in time for the annual Hueco Rock Rodeo, an outdoor bouldering competition drawing some of the biggest names in the sport, his trip got off to a running start.
video by James Lucas
“We got in at 7:30 the night before. I was definitely car lagged,” recalls Hedrick, “It was mostly a way to climb since we were already out there.” The Rodeo, drawing hundreds of competitors from across the nation and from overseas, is one of the rare days where park regulations are relaxed and travel through the park is less restricted. Climbing in the park if you’re not competing, however, isn’t possible, hence Brian’s attitude toward making the most of the day. “You can explore the mountain as much as you want without a specific guide. Runners take you from problem to problem, allowing you to see a lot in a short amount of time.”
Sensing that the marathon drive left him a little off the pace of those coming specifically to compete, Brian approached the day as an opportunity to suss out some beta and decide which of the myriad problems littering the area warranted further investigation. “I tried to have a positive attitude, but not sending a single problem all day was demoralizing. You have to squash the ego and push ahead. I started to enjoy the challenge of the problem itself, not just grade chasing.”
Photo by Brian Hedrick
The trip represented a concerted shift in Brian’s approach to climbing. “I went for fun and didn’t have high expectations.” Laughing, Brian adds, “I started training two weeks before I left.” After taking 9 months off to focus on Trad climbing, Brian explains the change of direction. “It’s more about having fun and getting on great problems than getting worked up and chasing numbers. You go in waves of being psyched to try and push yourself, physically and mentally.”
Thinking back on the Rodeo, Brian shows us how even a tough, frustrating climbing day can be transformed into a valuable experience. “Climbing with Jimmy [Webb] and Paul [Robinson] helped me see how to get things done before trying any moves.” Picking up insightful time and skin saving beta was but one way the day came together for Brian. “I only had 2 problems in mind before the trip and I ended the day with 14 new problems I hadn’t seen before. The one that really caught my attention was Blood of the Young Wolf (V14). It was magnificent, super simple with a need for constant focus and precision. It’s what I think of as a perfect boulder problem.” Brian explains. “Most people prefer powerful compression. For me it’s about being precise and having a low margin of error.”
Brian on Black Forest, photo by Lindsey Tjian
Coming into the trip with Espearanza (V13) and Crown of Aragorn (V13) on the agenda, projects eroded away as the Rodeo ebbed on. “I went with the intention of projecting, but things changed after the Rodeo.” With so many new problems on the horizon, Brian was finding it difficult to commit valuable time to a single one. “I didn’t project. Nothing I did took longer than 45 minutes,” he states without an ounce of bravado. “It was great being able to do a couple hard problems each day, a great experience.”
Photo by Brian Hedrick
True to his philosophy, the high points of Brian’s trip were less centered on the difficult ascents and more on the process and the experience itself. Still in the afterglow of finishing Alma Blanca (V13), a problem established decades earlier and one of the first of the grade, Brian stared into the eyes of the visionary who first unlocked the line. Shaking Fred Nicole’s hand with the reverence of a pilgrim handling a holy relic, Brian experienced one of those moments that remain indelible on our consciousness, a moment that drives the desire to embark on journeys such as this one. “It sounds cheesy, but he’s the reason we can climb as hard as we do. He was pushing the boundaries long before everybody else. He made bouldering what it is today and without him there’s no way I’d be able to climb as hard as I do. And he put up these lines 20 years ago,” exclaims Brian, with a contagious fervor and excitement. “It’s always easy to follow somebody,” he adds, “it’s hard to be a leader. You have to acknowledge their abilities and the time they spent to develop it.”
Brian, still no slouch on the wall despite the 9-month hiatus, also came away with a flash of the beautiful, gymnastic problem Tequila Sunrise (V12), which represented a milestone in his return to bouldering form. “I hadn’t flashed anything remotely difficult for the past year,” Brian states flatly. “You can’t beat flashing or onsighting, it’s the best way to do a problem. It’s the greatest challenge, you numb out on a problem when you start projecting,” he shares, comparing the differing tactics involved with each approach. “The flash is hard, difficult, you have to think on the fly. It incorporates mental, physical, instantaneous problems solving. You constantly have to assess the situation while keeping power in reserve.”
It looks cold! Photo by Lindsey Tjian
When asked what about the trip he would want to share with anyone heading out on their own, Brian enlightens us with some sage wisdom, “Crave has REALLY big waffles, share it for 3.” He says this with the mischievous grin of a pre-teen adolescent. Shifting gears, he becomes ever so slightly more serious, “If you anyone is hesitating about going to Hueco because of the restrictions know they’re a blessing and a curse. It’s tough to get onto tours but when you do it feels like you have the place to yourself, just you and your friends.”
Written by Chris Sinatra(Askew). Chris has been climbing for over 15 years and has traveled extensively to pursue his passion for the sport. He now calls San Francisco home while planning out the next big adventure. Follow Chris on Twitter @AcutelyAskew.
All-around shoes typically try to balance Comfort AND Performance – this elusive combination can be hard to find, but each PG gear shop has a new offering to fit the bill. Come in and try them on today!
Want to try on a pair from a gym you don’t usually visit? Let us know and we can transfer them down to your local gym!
Evolv Geshido SC comes to Sunnyvale! This shoe is one from the Sharma Signature Series and is a high performance all-around shoe. The “love bump” under the toes eliminates dead space for outstanding edging power, and thin crack jamming. The lined upper is leather in the toe and sole and synthetic in the heel so expect a bit of stretch through the toes, but not much.
Cost: $145. PG members take 10% off!
Tenaya RA comes to Belmont!
Tenaya is a company based in southeast Spain, an area with a long history of shoe making. While relatively new to the US market, the shoes have been used on various climbing projects all over the world and have received rave reviews. The RA features Vibram XS Grip and these shoes excel in edging, precision, performance, and comfort. The lined, synthetic upper means this shoe will not stretch.
Cost: $139.95. PG members take 10% off!
Five Ten Stonelands VCS comes to SF! The Stonelands is build on an all-new last and features a leather upper with a terry cloth type liner, a stiffer sole (so your toes can fit flatter and more comfortably), and 5.10s Stealth C4 rubber. You’ll be surprised by how comfortable the fit is right out of the box, and then amazed and their great edging and smearing abilities even with their comfortable fit.
Cost $140. PG members take 10% off!
Tips for trying on shoes:
Climbing shoes should fit snug, but you also don’t want to be blinded by pain – you can’t climb well if your feet hurt!
There is no “best shoe” there is only the shoe that’s best for you. Try on many different vendors and models to see what fits your foot the best.
The best way to know you are in the right size is to try edging on a hold or 2. When you edge in the shoes, your foot should feel totally stable – you should not feel like your foot is slipping inside the shoe.
If the shoe is going to stretch, err on the snugger side, but not so snug that they are too painful to wear right out of the box.