May 222013
 
PhilippinesClimbing

Bryan climbing in the Phillipines

On January 2, 2011, I began my life as a climber at Planet Granite San Francisco and since then, I have had a large passion for climbing. It began with climbing three days a week then to four to six days a week, and from there, climbing became an obsession.

I wasn’t a prodigy or a pro, only a novice, but the passion that grew inside me pushed me to keep trying harder grades, eventually leading me to climbing outdoors within the first couple months of putting on my first set of rock climbing shoes. Within the first year of climbing, I ended up climbing all over the Bay Area, including Castle Rock and Indian Rock, as well as in Yosemite, Bishop, San Diego, and Malibu. I felt that California was and still is an amazing place for climbing, but I wanted to broaden my horizons and learn more and more about this sport as well as improve my technique and feeling the different kinds of rock between my fingers.

And so this is where my journey began.

Along with climbing, I have another obsession with traveling. When November 2011 came, I decided to put the two things together I was most obsessed about, climbing and traveling, and decided to turn this obsession into a life changing experience. I packed my bags and said bye to all my friends in PGSF and in California and decided to travel the world while having the mission to climb wherever and whenever my heart desired. I wanted to climb on different rock, I wanted to meet the different kinds of climbers, I wanted to experience the cultures, and I wanted to experience this world doing the things I loved to do. And this is when my dreams became reality.

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The start of the trip: climbing with Alex Honnold in Bishop, CA

I started off slow but with a bang. I started first in Bishop, where I was projecting V5’s and V6’s while climbing with one of the most elite climbers in the world, Alex Honnold. Of course, I do not hold his elite status, but watching him climb made the time worthwhile.

Following my run-in with Honnold, I moved my way to Los Angeles, where my flight was going to take off, but a few days before leaving the country, I had another chance to climb with, in my opinion, the best woman climber in the world, Sasha DiGiulian.

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Meeting Sasha!

We met at a rock climbing shop where she premiered her video of her climbing Pure Imagination in Costa Mesa, CA. I didn’t want her autograph but I did muster up the courage to ask her if she wanted to go climbing, in which she obliged and two days later we climbed in Malibu.

After my run-ins with both climbers, I began my trip around the world, visiting over thirty countries, climbing in eight of them: Philippines, Indonesia, Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, India, Nepal, and Turkey.

I was asked to set routes in the Philippines, a project unfinished, and climbed with people from all over the world. People from Dubai, Germany, Spain, France, America, and so forth. Some of the weirdest, nicest, most unique individuals I have met made our time on and off the rock memorable in many ways.

ThialandClimbing

Climbing in Thailand

And no climbing trip to Southeast Asia is complete without climbing at the most infamous spot, Tonsai, Krabi, Thailand, the climbing capital of the world. The majority, if not all the people in Tonsai, are climbers and everyone spends almost their whole day climbing on the surrounding limestone cliffs. I even ran into PG climbers while I spent several weeks there! I even helped a friend finish his project of setting the first BASE jump off Tiger Wall.

Other than climbing in Thailand, there is climbing in Laos, in Vang Vien and Thakek, as well as in Vietnam, in Cat Ba off the northern coast. I tried my luck at deep water soloing here as well and took a big fall from 20 meters. I was fine, but would never try a jump from that high again. It hurt.

ClimbingIndia

Climbing in India!

As my travels were moving west, I found myself in India and Nepal, where I had the chance to meet the Indian Rock Climbing Team as well as one of eleven of the French Alpinist team. These men were amazing climbers and very hospitable and generous. I climbed in Manali with the rock climbing team where they took us to boulders and lead walls which ranged from very easy to very hard routes. A friend and I also decided to take a trip together through Shimla and to Leh to climb in not so known areas of India and got to experience the beautiful scenery around the Himalayas.

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The Indian Climbing Team

Eventually, I had to leave India, and decided to move on to Nepal. When I got to Nepal, I had to put away my rock climbing shoes, but put on my mountaineering shoes, where I trekked up the Annapurna Circuit, which goes around the Annapurna mountain range, and had the opportunity to see Mt. Everest, climbing up to Everest Base Camp.

Everest Trek

Everest Base Camp

As I finished traveling, through Asia, I went through Africa and then up to Turkey where I finished my last climb of my trip.

Over these last two years, I have met a lot of amazing people, climbers and non-climbers, and even inspired others to climb, teaching a few people who have never climbed before along the way, and see the world.

Climbing has opened my eyes to many opportunities and gave me many experiences I will never forget and will cherish for a lifetime. I am happy I broke the void of mundane life and I am glad that climbing was a part of breaking that void.

P.S. The only piece of clothing that has survived throughout the last two years was my PG sweatshirt. Hah.

Bio

 

A little note about Bryan: There were a few things I missed from these last two years and that was the craziness of San Francisco and the option to climb on a regular basis, but most of all I missed my friends.  Ironic thing is I opened a fortune cookie and it said “Friends long absent are coming back to you” although I think I’m going back to them.   So I can’t wait to climb again in my home climbing gym with the people that helped me get to where I am today.

Apr 032013
 

Traffic in Nairobi is horrible. Truly.

45 minutes into my (ridiculously expensive) cab ride I was regretting my decision to check out East Africa’s new (and only) climbing gym.

Needless to say I was NOT in a good mood when I arrived at Diamond Plaza last month.

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Looking up at the shopping mall (yes shopping mall!) in front of me I felt even less inspired.

What a weird place to have a climbing gym. I slowly grumbled my way up the SIX flights of stairs.

The moment I walked into Climb BlueSky all that anxiety melted away as I stared incredulously at what was, indeed, a ‘normal’ climbing gym. I’m not sure what I was expecting, but this blew me away. The fact that a climbing gym even exists in Nairobi is nothing short of a miracle quite frankly. I mean, who is going to invest in a facility for a sport that is virtually unknown to all but a few adrenaline junky expats housed in East Africa’s most vibrant economy?

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Two guys from Texas. That’s who.

Andrew Conway and Stephen Powell have been best friends since their parents had them in diapers.

Upon graduating college both moved to Nairobi to work with BlueSky Adventures, an experiential learning organization that does ropes courses and summer camps. It was there they pitched a climbing gym to their new bosses. Two years, more than $250,000 dollars and multiple hand drawn sketches later they opened Climb BlueSky in November 2012.

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These guys designed every single part of this gym. From the textured paint they put on the 3/4 inch plywood walls to the amphitheater room that hosts kids parties. There are currently about 25 roped routes on a 25 foot wall and 15 bouldering routes in a cave they built with a framework of metal square tubing and angle iron. Stephen ad Andrew are also the setters. None of the routes are graded per say, which makes roping up kind of fun to be honest. You never know what you are getting on.

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The energy in the place is amazing. About 50% of all climbers there on a given night are new to the sport. That means the PSYCH is sky high. Seriously. You hear guys egging each other on in Swahili.

Small Indian kids wide-eyed as they fall off the wall.

Huge Masaii men grunting their way up routes. Loudly.

It is hilarious and loads of fun. And everyone is super psyched. Did I mention that?

Andrew explains the diversity.

“The climbing culture in East Africa is a unique one to say the least. The culture here is a mix of old school style and techniques from Europe. Everyone is keen on taking new people out and we enjoy getting new addicts to the sport!”

Climbers in East Africa are also extremely resourceful and creative. It’s virtually impossible to find gear. Stephen and Andrew have to wait months for shipments of things like chalk, shoes and holds to come in. Even seemingly simple things like disinfectant to clean shoes is impossible to find. And with so many new climbers the demand for gear is high. That’s part of the reason for my visit. Planet Granite San Francisco graciously offered to donate some of their used climbing shoes to the Climb Blue Sky Team!

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I’m headed back in May – hoping to take the guys more shoes, climbing holds and anything else they may need to further their mission of spreading the climbing psych. Andrew and Stephen have big dreams for the gym but first and foremost they have to prove there is a market. Most gear companies and retailers have thus far refused to offer them pro-deals or support. Until then, it’s up to us, the wider global climbing community, to make sure they have what they need. So if you have anything you want to donate that is in good condition, let us know.

Kenya, by the way, has some great outdoor climbing. There is of course Mt. Kenya for the alpine climbing enthusiasts. For crack fiends such as myself there is a beautiful region called Hells Gate. And for some weekend cragging there is Lukenya. A 45-minute drive from Nairobi along Mombasa Road, this crag affords sweeping views of the landscape replete with giraffes on the horizon. I roped up for some sport climbing with the guys there one Saturday. Lets just say this rock does some damage to your pads.

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PG SF member, Cris Valerio was in Nairobi on a mobile banking project as an Innovator in Residence at IDEO.org.   She is a crack addict and aspires to be as strong as PGSF Assistant Manager Mick, grow sausage fingers like PG Sunnyvale Manager Eliot, monkey climb like PG Belmont Manager Jeremy, yard on gear as well as PG Retail Manager Carolyn and be half as cool as PGSF Manager Jeff’s wife. 

Mar 252013
 

Fresh on the heels of Mark and Josh’s trip, Brian “Cuz” Hedrick left San Francisco for a week-long bouldering sojourn in Hueco Tanks State Park.  Stopping only to bivy in Joshua Tree since time was precious and he was determined to make the most of the short trip.  Arriving just in time for the annual Hueco Rock Rodeo, an outdoor bouldering competition drawing some of the biggest names in the sport, his trip got off to a running start.

video by James Lucas

“We got in at 7:30 the night before.  I was definitely car lagged,” recalls Hedrick, “It was mostly a way to climb since we were already out there.”  The Rodeo, drawing hundreds of competitors from across the nation and from overseas, is one of the rare days where park regulations are relaxed and travel through the park is less restricted.  Climbing in the park if you’re not competing, however, isn’t possible, hence Brian’s attitude toward making the most of the day.  “You can explore the mountain as much as you want without a specific guide.  Runners take you from problem to problem, allowing you to see a lot in a short amount of time.”

Sensing that the marathon drive left him a little off the pace of those coming specifically to compete, Brian approached the day as an opportunity to suss out some beta and decide which of the myriad problems littering the area warranted further investigation.   “I tried to have a positive attitude, but not sending a single problem all day was demoralizing.  You have to squash the ego and push ahead.  I started to enjoy the challenge of the problem itself, not just grade chasing.”

Photo Cuz 2

Photo by Brian Hedrick

The trip represented a concerted shift in Brian’s approach to climbing.  “I went for fun and didn’t have high expectations.”  Laughing, Brian adds, “I started training two weeks before I left.”  After taking 9 months off to focus on Trad climbing, Brian explains the change of direction.  “It’s more about having fun and getting on great problems than getting worked up and chasing numbers.  You go in waves of being psyched to try and push yourself, physically and mentally.”

 

Thinking back on the Rodeo, Brian shows us how even a tough, frustrating climbing day can be transformed into a valuable experience.  “Climbing with Jimmy [Webb] and Paul [Robinson] helped me see how to get things done before trying any moves.”  Picking up insightful time and skin saving beta was but one way the day came together for Brian.  “I only had 2 problems in mind before the trip and I ended the day with 14 new problems I hadn’t seen before.  The one that really caught my attention was Blood of the Young Wolf (V14).  It was magnificent, super simple with a need for constant focus and precision.  It’s what I think of as a perfect boulder problem.” Brian explains.  “Most people prefer powerful compression.  For me it’s about being precise and having a low margin of error.”

Photo Lindsey Tjian Black Forest

Brian on Black Forest, photo by Lindsey Tjian

Coming into the trip with Espearanza (V13) and Crown of Aragorn (V13) on the agenda, projects eroded away as the Rodeo ebbed on.  “I went with the intention of projecting, but things changed after the Rodeo.”  With so many new problems on the horizon, Brian was finding it difficult to commit valuable time to a single one.  “I didn’t project.  Nothing I did took longer than 45 minutes,” he states without an ounce of bravado.  “It was great being able to do a couple hard problems each day, a great experience.”

Photo Cuz

Photo by Brian Hedrick

True to his philosophy, the high points of Brian’s trip were less centered on the difficult ascents and more on the process and the experience itself.  Still in the afterglow of finishing Alma Blanca (V13), a problem established decades earlier and one of the first of the grade, Brian stared into the eyes of the visionary who first unlocked the line.  Shaking Fred Nicole’s hand with the reverence of a pilgrim handling a holy relic, Brian experienced one of those moments that remain indelible on our consciousness, a moment that drives the desire to embark on journeys such as this one.  “It sounds cheesy, but he’s the reason we can climb as hard as we do.  He was pushing the boundaries long before everybody else.  He made bouldering what it is today and without him there’s no way I’d be able to climb as hard as I do.  And he put up these lines 20 years ago,” exclaims Brian, with a contagious fervor and excitement.  “It’s always easy to follow somebody,” he adds, “it’s hard to be a leader.  You have to acknowledge their abilities and the time they spent to develop it.”

 

Brian, still no slouch on the wall despite the 9-month hiatus, also came away with a flash of the beautiful, gymnastic problem Tequila Sunrise (V12), which represented a milestone in his return to bouldering form.  “I hadn’t flashed anything remotely difficult for the past year,” Brian states flatly.  “You can’t beat flashing or onsighting, it’s the best way to do a problem.  It’s the greatest challenge, you numb out on a problem when you start projecting,” he shares, comparing the differing tactics involved with each approach.  “The flash is hard, difficult, you have to think on the fly. It incorporates mental, physical, instantaneous problems solving.  You constantly have to assess the situation while keeping power in reserve.”

Photo Lindsey Tjian

It looks cold! Photo by Lindsey Tjian

When asked what about the trip he would want to share with anyone heading out on their own, Brian enlightens us with some sage wisdom, “Crave has REALLY big waffles, share it for 3.”  He says this with the mischievous grin of a pre-teen adolescent.  Shifting gears, he becomes ever so slightly more serious, “If you anyone is hesitating about going to Hueco because of the restrictions know they’re a blessing and a curse.  It’s tough to get onto tours but when you do it feels like you have the place to yourself, just you and your friends.”

 

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Written by Chris Sinatra (Askew).  Chris has been climbing for over 15 years and has traveled extensively to pursue his passion for the sport.  He now calls San Francisco home while planning out the next big adventure.  Follow Chris on Twitter @AcutelyAskew.

Mar 212013
 

All-around shoes typically try to balance Comfort AND Performance – this elusive combination can be hard to find,  but each PG gear shop has a new offering to fit the bill.  Come in and try them  on today!

Want to try on a pair from a gym you don’t usually visit?  Let us know and we can transfer them down to your local gym!

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Evolv Geshido SC comes to Sunnyvale!  This shoe is one from the Sharma Signature Series and is a high performance all-around shoe.  The “love bump” under the toes eliminates dead space for outstanding edging power, and thin crack jamming.  The lined upper is leather in the toe and sole and synthetic in the heel so expect a bit of stretch through the toes, but not much.
Cost: $145.  PG members take 10% off!

 

RA

 

Tenaya RA comes to Belmont!

Tenaya is a company based in southeast Spain, an area with a long history of shoe making.  While relatively new to the US market, the shoes have been used on various climbing projects all over the world and have received rave reviews.  The RA features Vibram XS Grip and these shoes excel in edging, precision, performance, and comfort.   The lined, synthetic upper means this shoe will not stretch.
Cost: $139.95.  PG members take 10% off!

 

 

stonelands vcs

Five Ten Stonelands VCS comes to SF! The Stonelands is build on an all-new last and features a leather upper with a terry cloth type liner, a stiffer sole (so your toes can fit flatter and more comfortably), and 5.10s Stealth C4 rubber.  You’ll be surprised by how comfortable the fit is right out of the box, and then amazed and their great edging and smearing abilities even with their comfortable fit.

Cost $140.  PG members take 10% off!

 

Tips for trying on shoes:

  • Climbing shoes should fit snug, but you also don’t want to be blinded by pain – you can’t climb well if your feet hurt!
  • There is no “best shoe” there is only the shoe that’s best for you.  Try on many different vendors and models to see what fits your foot the best.
  • The best way to know you are in the right size is to try edging on a hold or 2.  When you edge in the shoes, your foot should feel totally stable – you should not feel like your foot is slipping inside the shoe.
  • If the shoe is going to stretch, err on the snugger side, but not so snug that they are too painful to wear right out of the box.
  • Still have questions?  Come visit our gear shop or email Carolyn@planetgranite.com

Full line at each gym:

Remember we’re happy to transfer a shoe to another location if we don’t carry it at your local one!

Sunnyvale

Belmont

San Francisco

Evolv
Cruzer
Evolv
Cruzer
Evolv
Cruzer
Evolv
Defy
Evolv
Defy
Evolv
Defy
Evolv
Elektra
Evolv
Elektra
Evolv
Elektra
Evolv
Geshido SC
Evolv
Venga
Evolv
Shaman
Evolv
Shaman
Five Ten
Anasazi Moccasym
Evolv
Venga
Evolv
Venga
Five Ten
Anasazi VCS
Five Ten
Anasazi Moccasym
Five Ten
Anasazi LV
Five Ten
Coyote VCS
Five Ten
Coyote VCS
Five Ten
Anasazi Moccasym
La Sportiva
Miura(M & W)
Five Ten
Dragon
Five Ten
Anasazi VCS
La Sportiva
Mythos (M & W)
Five Ten
Galileo
Five Ten
Arrowhead
La Sportiva
Solution
Five Ten
Stonelands VCS
Five Ten
Guide Tennie
Tenaya
RA
La Sportiva
Katana (M & W)
Five Ten
Coyote VCS
La Sportiva
Katana Lace
La Sportiva
Cobra
La Sportiva
Mythos (M & W)
La Sportiva
Katana (m & w)
La Sportiva
Solution
La Sportiva
Miura VS
La Sportiva
Womens Miura
La Sportiva
Mythos (m & w)
La Sportiva
TC Pro
La Sportiva
Solution
La Sportiva
TC Pro
Mar 082013
 

We are thrilled to announce we will be working with Walltopia for our Portland gym!

Walltopia is extremely excited to be partnering with Planet Granite for their new Portland, OR location,” says Adam Koberna, Walltopia’s US Sales Manager.  ”Planet Granite has built some of the best indoor climbing gyms in the country and we are honored for this opportunity to collaborate with them and push the limits of climbing wall design.”

Walltopia Space Wall Rendering

Walltopia Space Wall Rendering

Since launching in 1996, Walltopia has become an industry leader in climbing wall building and design.  Their walls can be found inside Stone Summit, Momentum, Stone Gardens, SoIll and other great facilities around the world.  Their creative designs and unique products, such as  3D curves, Space Walls, and non-marking surfaces create architecturally inspiring works of art that both look and climb amazingly well.

This is what keeps them psyched!  ”Innovation and doing things that nobody has ever done or seen before,” Koberna adds. “We believe that we are in the beginning of massive growth for our sport and industry and everyone at Walltopia a is motivated to be a part of that. Combine that with clients who feel the same way and the psych never stops.”

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Stone Summit in Atlanta, GA

Walltopia Logo

And we are psyched to work with them!  ”I love their walls and will be proud to put them in our Portland gym,” says Planet Granite owner Micky Lloyd.  ”Having built our own climbing walls in the past it has been nerve wracking to contemplate having an outsider build them for us. Seeing the quality of their product and the passion Walltopia has for innovation makes me comfortable that we have made the right choice.”

Over the years, Planet Granite has brought innovation to its climbing gyms, such as being the first to build a hydraulically adjustable crack and system board.  Planet Granite Portland will take the best of what we’ve built, and combined with Walltopia’s designs, be an amazing gym.  We’ve laid out some initial wall ideas and we can’t wait to see what Walltopia will dream up!

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Prometheus 19: 3D molded fiberglass panels pushing the limits in comp wall design!

Planet Granite Portland will open in 2014!  Stay tuned for updates (plus we just uploaded some new design renderings of the building on our Portland Page!) Follow this blog, like the PG PDX Facebook Page or subscribe to our newsletter!

Jan 312013
 

Your Performance Plateau is all in Your Mind
By Arno Ilgner

(Arno discusses what you will learn in his training program in the above audio track).

Planet Granite is proud to host 2 more workshops by Arno!
Space is limited, so don’t wait – sign up today!  Details below.

NEW DATES:
Saturday April 6th – PG San Francisco 8:30am-12:30pm
Sunday April 7th – PG Sunnyvale 8:30am – 12:30pm

  • Sat, March 2nd: Belmont 8:30a-12:30p FULL
  • Sun, March 3rd: Sunnyvale 8:30a-12:30p FULL
  • Sat, March 9th: SF 8:30-12:30p  FULL

WarriorsWaylogo®

So, you’ve hit the dreaded plateau; you’re frustrated. If you had an opportunity to break through it, would you jump at it? What if I offered you a money back guarantee? Here’s your chance. I developed the Warrior’s Way mental training program and will be teaching it at PG in March.

This training addresses falling directly to help improve commitment. We do progressive falling practice, followed by movement, breathing, resting, and body/mind awareness exercises. Finally, you’ll apply everything to a goal route. You’ll leave understanding how to take appropriate risks and how to commit to those risks. That’s a lot to cover in 4 hours. Imagine the benefits, but don’t take my word for it. Read Dennis’ comments below:

“Hey Arno, how’s it going?  Dennis here from your City of Rocks class this past summer.  Let me first say thank you for the amazing course.  All through the Fall I truly focused on implementing the WW methods in my climbing and it made HUGE differences!!!  I went from struggling up 11′s to almost on-sighting 13a.  I didn’t get frustrated with falling or have trouble on routes.  I had more fun climbing than I had in years, simply by implementing the techniques you taught us.   The WW has truly made an impact on my climbing and on my life.  So thank you for spending time with me and Krista at the City.”

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I’m not promising miracles; all progress takes hard work on your part. But, if you know how and what to practice, it makes your progress quicker, more effective, and with less chance of injury.

Check out this falling exercise video from a camp at Red Rocks. Students are instructed to focus on breathing, eye shift, and body position. Yet, students miss many subtleties that only direct coaching corrects, speeding the student’s progress. This is the power of receiving that direct coaching in the ww clinics. We’ll practice the same exercises in the gym that you see in this video, and many more.

In just 4 hours you’ll learn how to:

  • Fall safely
  • Give a dynamic (cushioned) belay
  • Improve focus
  • Create flow and momentum
  • Deal with climbing stress
  • Commit more deliberately
  • Distinguish between no- and yes-fall zones
  • Make appropriate risk decisions
  • Improve body and mind awareness
  • Rest effectively
  • Improve breathing
  • Reduce fear

Don’t delay; spaces are limited; some clinics are already full.

No risk, money back guarantee. If you don’t feel the clinic benefited you, I’ll refund your money.

Register by contacting Arno:
615-406-3404, orders@warriorsway.com, or wwSiteLink
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Arno demonstrating his mental fitness.