Apr 102013
 

The Access Fund (AF) has just released a position paper on the newest draft of the Merced River Plan (MRP). The paper briefly mentions some of the major actions that the plan proposes, and highlights four specific areas that the Access Fund is urging the Yosemite Planners and National Park Service (NPS) to consider more in-depth. A link to the paper can be found here.

Comments are needed no later than April 30th, and you can comment via this webform HERE.  We support the Access Fund’s position and urge you to comment.  The Access Fund has just released an easy letter writing tool to help you submit your feedback found HERE.

Merced River Plan - photo borrowed from nps.org

Photo borrowed from nps.gov

While the plan does not affect Yosemite climbing directly, it does have potential, indirect ramifications down the line.  In order to understand the possible long-term effects it is important to understand a little about what the Merced River Plan is and why the Access Fund is involved.

Essentially, portions of the Merced River are declared by Congress to be a National Wild and Scenic River, such as the part running through Yosemite Valley. This means the National Park Service has certain obligations to maintain and protect many of the natural qualities of the river, and they have attempted to implement a couple different plans over the years.  Jumping ahead to today, the NPS is now on attempt number 3 to push through a plan that would put in place the adequate enhancements and protections to preserve the Merced’s natural awe and luster as well as do some much needed maintenance while they’re at it.  So how does any of this affect us as climbers?

As climbers, we take trips to Yosemite to hike, to sightsee, and of course, to climb.  In truth, anything that affects Yosemite will affect visitors, including climbers, and the variety of ways we use the beautiful valley.  As the Access Fund’s paper points out, there are a few plans that DO deal directly with climbing in the Valley that will be coming down the pipeline.  This is why we need to pay attention.

With all these plans, there are a number of parties who will be affected and all have their own vested interests.  We, as climbers, are one of those parties but even we do not have common ground.  Among us, there are pushes for more extreme measures (e.g. doing away with parking proposals, campsites near crags, etc).  Well-intentioned as they may be, there may be possible downsides for pushing too far in the direction of our own interests. The unfortunate reality is that we’re dealing in the realm of politics.

The unspoken fear is that if we can’t help the NPS finally push a proposal through, Congress may pass a law over-riding the Park’s current plan that would likely increase commercialization and have negative impacts on the interests of climbers. The other possible problem with pulling too hard toward a more utopian plan is that climbers have been slowly making positive relationships with Yosemite Rangers and have a lot of momentum to lose in the following plans if we, fairly or unfairly, are made to look like mindless rabble-rousers.

All this aside, there is room for positive change within the latest MRP. The Access Fund has put out an open call to climbers to contact them with opinions, questions, concerns, and ideas pertaining to the upcoming draft.   Look over the Access Fund points here and comment here. At the risk of oversimplifying I see climbers as having three options: push for a more climber-centric plan now and risk losing valuable traction on upcoming plans that will directly effect us; work to have climber interests met in the current draft; or do nothing. If the latter finds you bivied under a street light outside of the new El Capitan gift shop – tough luck.

Sincere thanks to the Access Fund and Jason Keith for supplying us with mounds of information and taking the time to answer our multitudinous questions.  

Mar 272013
 

New Classes!

Effective April 1st, 2013 Planet Granite Belmont will be adding two new lunchtime classes to the schedule.
donesa-pilatesfoamroller

Mat Pilates with Donesa on Wednesday, 12pm-12:45pm.

Need a quick lunchtime break; this class is a great core workout. The use of additional equipment such as stability balls, resistance bands and foam rollers are often used to enhance movements in this amazing class.

Yin with Edwina on Tuesday, 12pm – 1pm.

130327 - edwinaCome unwind, relax and release the stresses of the day! Yin yoga opens up the deep, dense, connective tissues and joints through a series of poses held for a considerable length allowing for a complete and passive release.

Yin Yoga is designed to unwind and de-clutter you body and support your over all well being both physically and mentally. Yin Yoga is a complimentary practice that balances the effects of more active forms of yoga and exercise. Poses are held for longer periods of time than typical and attention is drawn to the connective tissues of your muscles aiding in increased circulation and flexibility.

Read more about Edwina on her website: www.edwinaferroyoga.com and Facebook Page www.facebook.com/yogaforeverybodywitheddie

 

Instructor and Time changes

We have also made a few instructor changes and time adjustments starting April 1st:

  •  Vinyasa on Thursday evenings is now taught by Natalie Safra.
  • Core Yoga with Amy jumped to Thursday from 12pm -1pm.
  • Morning Power with JoAnneh moved to a start time of 7:15am on Wednesday and Friday. Not an early morning person, join us for a great 60 minutes yoga class before work!

Coming in May 2013

Partner Yoga with Emily will be the first Friday of every month starting in May. Experience the unity of partner yoga through flow, flight and fun together. Bring a partner or come by yourself and meet a fellow yogi or yogini. Emily will guide you on an enriching journey as she encourages you to tune into the vibrations of your true self, your partner, your community and your universe. All levels welcome with advanced options for the adventurous at heart.

If you have any feedback please feel free to leave a comment in the suggestion box or email Brett, the gym manager at: BSmith@planetgranite.com 

Mar 252013
 

Fresh on the heels of Mark and Josh’s trip, Brian “Cuz” Hedrick left San Francisco for a week-long bouldering sojourn in Hueco Tanks State Park.  Stopping only to bivy in Joshua Tree since time was precious and he was determined to make the most of the short trip.  Arriving just in time for the annual Hueco Rock Rodeo, an outdoor bouldering competition drawing some of the biggest names in the sport, his trip got off to a running start.

video by James Lucas

“We got in at 7:30 the night before.  I was definitely car lagged,” recalls Hedrick, “It was mostly a way to climb since we were already out there.”  The Rodeo, drawing hundreds of competitors from across the nation and from overseas, is one of the rare days where park regulations are relaxed and travel through the park is less restricted.  Climbing in the park if you’re not competing, however, isn’t possible, hence Brian’s attitude toward making the most of the day.  “You can explore the mountain as much as you want without a specific guide.  Runners take you from problem to problem, allowing you to see a lot in a short amount of time.”

Sensing that the marathon drive left him a little off the pace of those coming specifically to compete, Brian approached the day as an opportunity to suss out some beta and decide which of the myriad problems littering the area warranted further investigation.   “I tried to have a positive attitude, but not sending a single problem all day was demoralizing.  You have to squash the ego and push ahead.  I started to enjoy the challenge of the problem itself, not just grade chasing.”

Photo Cuz 2

Photo by Brian Hedrick

The trip represented a concerted shift in Brian’s approach to climbing.  “I went for fun and didn’t have high expectations.”  Laughing, Brian adds, “I started training two weeks before I left.”  After taking 9 months off to focus on Trad climbing, Brian explains the change of direction.  “It’s more about having fun and getting on great problems than getting worked up and chasing numbers.  You go in waves of being psyched to try and push yourself, physically and mentally.”

 

Thinking back on the Rodeo, Brian shows us how even a tough, frustrating climbing day can be transformed into a valuable experience.  “Climbing with Jimmy [Webb] and Paul [Robinson] helped me see how to get things done before trying any moves.”  Picking up insightful time and skin saving beta was but one way the day came together for Brian.  “I only had 2 problems in mind before the trip and I ended the day with 14 new problems I hadn’t seen before.  The one that really caught my attention was Blood of the Young Wolf (V14).  It was magnificent, super simple with a need for constant focus and precision.  It’s what I think of as a perfect boulder problem.” Brian explains.  “Most people prefer powerful compression.  For me it’s about being precise and having a low margin of error.”

Photo Lindsey Tjian Black Forest

Brian on Black Forest, photo by Lindsey Tjian

Coming into the trip with Espearanza (V13) and Crown of Aragorn (V13) on the agenda, projects eroded away as the Rodeo ebbed on.  “I went with the intention of projecting, but things changed after the Rodeo.”  With so many new problems on the horizon, Brian was finding it difficult to commit valuable time to a single one.  “I didn’t project.  Nothing I did took longer than 45 minutes,” he states without an ounce of bravado.  “It was great being able to do a couple hard problems each day, a great experience.”

Photo Cuz

Photo by Brian Hedrick

True to his philosophy, the high points of Brian’s trip were less centered on the difficult ascents and more on the process and the experience itself.  Still in the afterglow of finishing Alma Blanca (V13), a problem established decades earlier and one of the first of the grade, Brian stared into the eyes of the visionary who first unlocked the line.  Shaking Fred Nicole’s hand with the reverence of a pilgrim handling a holy relic, Brian experienced one of those moments that remain indelible on our consciousness, a moment that drives the desire to embark on journeys such as this one.  “It sounds cheesy, but he’s the reason we can climb as hard as we do.  He was pushing the boundaries long before everybody else.  He made bouldering what it is today and without him there’s no way I’d be able to climb as hard as I do.  And he put up these lines 20 years ago,” exclaims Brian, with a contagious fervor and excitement.  “It’s always easy to follow somebody,” he adds, “it’s hard to be a leader.  You have to acknowledge their abilities and the time they spent to develop it.”

 

Brian, still no slouch on the wall despite the 9-month hiatus, also came away with a flash of the beautiful, gymnastic problem Tequila Sunrise (V12), which represented a milestone in his return to bouldering form.  “I hadn’t flashed anything remotely difficult for the past year,” Brian states flatly.  “You can’t beat flashing or onsighting, it’s the best way to do a problem.  It’s the greatest challenge, you numb out on a problem when you start projecting,” he shares, comparing the differing tactics involved with each approach.  “The flash is hard, difficult, you have to think on the fly. It incorporates mental, physical, instantaneous problems solving.  You constantly have to assess the situation while keeping power in reserve.”

Photo Lindsey Tjian

It looks cold! Photo by Lindsey Tjian

When asked what about the trip he would want to share with anyone heading out on their own, Brian enlightens us with some sage wisdom, “Crave has REALLY big waffles, share it for 3.”  He says this with the mischievous grin of a pre-teen adolescent.  Shifting gears, he becomes ever so slightly more serious, “If you anyone is hesitating about going to Hueco because of the restrictions know they’re a blessing and a curse.  It’s tough to get onto tours but when you do it feels like you have the place to yourself, just you and your friends.”

 

chrissinatra-sf-setter

 

 

Written by Chris Sinatra (Askew).  Chris has been climbing for over 15 years and has traveled extensively to pursue his passion for the sport.  He now calls San Francisco home while planning out the next big adventure.  Follow Chris on Twitter @AcutelyAskew.

Mar 212013
 

All-around shoes typically try to balance Comfort AND Performance – this elusive combination can be hard to find,  but each PG gear shop has a new offering to fit the bill.  Come in and try them  on today!

Want to try on a pair from a gym you don’t usually visit?  Let us know and we can transfer them down to your local gym!

geshidosc

Evolv Geshido SC comes to Sunnyvale!  This shoe is one from the Sharma Signature Series and is a high performance all-around shoe.  The “love bump” under the toes eliminates dead space for outstanding edging power, and thin crack jamming.  The lined upper is leather in the toe and sole and synthetic in the heel so expect a bit of stretch through the toes, but not much.
Cost: $145.  PG members take 10% off!

 

RA

 

Tenaya RA comes to Belmont!

Tenaya is a company based in southeast Spain, an area with a long history of shoe making.  While relatively new to the US market, the shoes have been used on various climbing projects all over the world and have received rave reviews.  The RA features Vibram XS Grip and these shoes excel in edging, precision, performance, and comfort.   The lined, synthetic upper means this shoe will not stretch.
Cost: $139.95.  PG members take 10% off!

 

 

stonelands vcs

Five Ten Stonelands VCS comes to SF! The Stonelands is build on an all-new last and features a leather upper with a terry cloth type liner, a stiffer sole (so your toes can fit flatter and more comfortably), and 5.10s Stealth C4 rubber.  You’ll be surprised by how comfortable the fit is right out of the box, and then amazed and their great edging and smearing abilities even with their comfortable fit.

Cost $140.  PG members take 10% off!

 

Tips for trying on shoes:

  • Climbing shoes should fit snug, but you also don’t want to be blinded by pain – you can’t climb well if your feet hurt!
  • There is no “best shoe” there is only the shoe that’s best for you.  Try on many different vendors and models to see what fits your foot the best.
  • The best way to know you are in the right size is to try edging on a hold or 2.  When you edge in the shoes, your foot should feel totally stable – you should not feel like your foot is slipping inside the shoe.
  • If the shoe is going to stretch, err on the snugger side, but not so snug that they are too painful to wear right out of the box.
  • Still have questions?  Come visit our gear shop or email Carolyn@planetgranite.com

Full line at each gym:

Remember we’re happy to transfer a shoe to another location if we don’t carry it at your local one!

Sunnyvale

Belmont

San Francisco

Evolv
Cruzer
Evolv
Cruzer
Evolv
Cruzer
Evolv
Defy
Evolv
Defy
Evolv
Defy
Evolv
Elektra
Evolv
Elektra
Evolv
Elektra
Evolv
Geshido SC
Evolv
Venga
Evolv
Shaman
Evolv
Shaman
Five Ten
Anasazi Moccasym
Evolv
Venga
Evolv
Venga
Five Ten
Anasazi VCS
Five Ten
Anasazi Moccasym
Five Ten
Anasazi LV
Five Ten
Coyote VCS
Five Ten
Coyote VCS
Five Ten
Anasazi Moccasym
La Sportiva
Miura(M & W)
Five Ten
Dragon
Five Ten
Anasazi VCS
La Sportiva
Mythos (M & W)
Five Ten
Galileo
Five Ten
Arrowhead
La Sportiva
Solution
Five Ten
Stonelands VCS
Five Ten
Guide Tennie
Tenaya
RA
La Sportiva
Katana (M & W)
Five Ten
Coyote VCS
La Sportiva
Katana Lace
La Sportiva
Cobra
La Sportiva
Mythos (M & W)
La Sportiva
Katana (m & w)
La Sportiva
Solution
La Sportiva
Miura VS
La Sportiva
Womens Miura
La Sportiva
Mythos (m & w)
La Sportiva
TC Pro
La Sportiva
Solution
La Sportiva
TC Pro
Mar 062013
 

Jeremy “Twinkle Toes” Spitz. The man needs little introduction, but here’s one for posterity: During his time at PGSF he’s taught at least half of you to stop dragging the talons of those brand new, down-turned shoes across your project on the slab wall. And, somewhere near thirty of your yet-to-be-born children owe him a big thank you for teaching your buddy to give a soft catch. Oh, and he crack climbs. No, he’s not retired. Your guess is as good as mine. Lately, though, he’s taken his skills on the road and is now backing up Brett Smith as assistant manager in PG Belmont. He has graciously taken a minute to catch us up on how things are going so far.

J on Aunnunaki 5.12-IC
Jeremy crushing Aunnunaki at Indian Creek

So, first thing is first – congratulations on the new position. 

Thanks! It is gratifying to have landed this role!

How’s the transition been from San Francisco to Belmont?  Are there any major differences you’ve seen between gyms?

Well the major difference is obviously size and traffic. Belmont is smaller and less busy than PGSF and I think that fact is what allows it to have such an amazing community. There is a very strong family vibe down here. The community is very tight knit and nearly everyone seems to know each other. I started climbing at a similar gym and I feel very lucky to have the chance to be a part of this group. The overall atmosphere is very relaxed and everyone is super psyched on climbing!

 

How did you end up at PG in the first place? What got you started?

I got into climbing in college at UC Santa Cruz. They have a great outdoor education program there and I took a trip to Castle Rock where I managed to pull my way up a few TR’s on Goat Rock. After that I joined the climbing gym down there with a few friends and I have been pretty much addicted ever since. Sticking with it has never been a question; it is pretty much what I have been looking for my whole life. I got a job at PG simply because I wanted to be around climbing and other climbers as much as possible. I think remembering why we are all here and our shared passion is going to be important as a manager.

J on Swedin Ringle 5.12 IC
Did we mention he’s a crack climber?  Jeremy on Swedin Ringle, Indian Creek

All right, tell us a little about your day. What goes into assisting a manager?

A lot more email, phone calls and sitting in an office than I am used to after 4 years of working at the front desk. There is a lot a variety in the situations that come up, but in general, I handle the schedule, the class calendar and corporate events. My full responsibilities are still being figured out though and I am trying to learn how to run a gym on the back end.

 

Does the new situation alter your training and climbing schedule at all?

I am still getting in the swing of things and getting used to my new schedule. I am working more hours than before so finding time might be a challenge, but I am looking forward to building a routine and finding some great new climbing partner down here.
What hopes do you have for the gym as a whole now? What’s around the corner for Belmont?

As a whole I just want to help make this gym run smoothly and be the best gym it can be! I also want to expand the class offerings a little bit. I ran a crack clinic in February and are running the Power Endurance Class here in March!

J on Jedi Mind Tricks V4 Bishop
He boulders too!  Jeremy cruising highball classic Jedi Mind Tricks.

Bouldering league has recently expanded to Sunnyvale. Are there any plans to include Belmont at some point? If so, what impact do you think it will have on the gym/community?

It is definitely in the works. I think it is a great program and a really fun way to get people of all abilities climbing together. We have to work out the details though and figure out how many people we can accommodate without overwhelming all the other boulderers in the gym.

How is it working with Brett, the gym manager?

Brett is awesome! He is also pretty new to his role but seems to have things figured out really well. I have learned a ton from him so far.

Jeremy Spitz Inerview pic

You were heading up the team here in SF – what differences do you see between the teams now that you’re in BL?

I unfortunately haven’t had much time yet to hang out with the BL team. The kids that I have met are super strong and super psyched which is always good to see. I hope I can spend some more time with them in the future. The program down here has been around for a while and there are more kids then the SF team. Our new head coach Ryan is doing a great job getting the program organized and getting the kids strong.

J on Annunaki 5.12- IC

Finally, why should we all come check out Belmont’s gym?

We have everything that makes a climbing gym great: Great bouldering terrain, awesome top ropes and, of course, PG’s excellent setting. What really makes this gym amazing though is all of the great people. Come hang out!

Also we have a tread wall, which I think is pretty cool…

Keep an eye out for Jeremy’s training clinics as he settles in to his new home and starts to up Belmont’s collective redpoint grade. He’ll also be there when you’re Groupon expires and you need that extra day to schedule a belay class.

 

JasonC

 

 

Thanks to PG SF’s Jason Crase for this interview!
Jason lives for Mission burritos, Hemingway novels and Levi’s Slim Fitting Jeans.  On any given day you can find him at Bender’s or hanging on the BeastMaker at PGSF.

Jan 312013
 

Your Performance Plateau is all in Your Mind
By Arno Ilgner

(Arno discusses what you will learn in his training program in the above audio track).

Planet Granite is proud to host 2 more workshops by Arno!
Space is limited, so don’t wait – sign up today!  Details below.

NEW DATES:
Saturday April 6th – PG San Francisco 8:30am-12:30pm
Sunday April 7th – PG Sunnyvale 8:30am – 12:30pm

  • Sat, March 2nd: Belmont 8:30a-12:30p FULL
  • Sun, March 3rd: Sunnyvale 8:30a-12:30p FULL
  • Sat, March 9th: SF 8:30-12:30p  FULL

WarriorsWaylogo®

So, you’ve hit the dreaded plateau; you’re frustrated. If you had an opportunity to break through it, would you jump at it? What if I offered you a money back guarantee? Here’s your chance. I developed the Warrior’s Way mental training program and will be teaching it at PG in March.

This training addresses falling directly to help improve commitment. We do progressive falling practice, followed by movement, breathing, resting, and body/mind awareness exercises. Finally, you’ll apply everything to a goal route. You’ll leave understanding how to take appropriate risks and how to commit to those risks. That’s a lot to cover in 4 hours. Imagine the benefits, but don’t take my word for it. Read Dennis’ comments below:

“Hey Arno, how’s it going?  Dennis here from your City of Rocks class this past summer.  Let me first say thank you for the amazing course.  All through the Fall I truly focused on implementing the WW methods in my climbing and it made HUGE differences!!!  I went from struggling up 11′s to almost on-sighting 13a.  I didn’t get frustrated with falling or have trouble on routes.  I had more fun climbing than I had in years, simply by implementing the techniques you taught us.   The WW has truly made an impact on my climbing and on my life.  So thank you for spending time with me and Krista at the City.”

130130-Poster-FC_Planet Granite_2013-01

I’m not promising miracles; all progress takes hard work on your part. But, if you know how and what to practice, it makes your progress quicker, more effective, and with less chance of injury.

Check out this falling exercise video from a camp at Red Rocks. Students are instructed to focus on breathing, eye shift, and body position. Yet, students miss many subtleties that only direct coaching corrects, speeding the student’s progress. This is the power of receiving that direct coaching in the ww clinics. We’ll practice the same exercises in the gym that you see in this video, and many more.

In just 4 hours you’ll learn how to:

  • Fall safely
  • Give a dynamic (cushioned) belay
  • Improve focus
  • Create flow and momentum
  • Deal with climbing stress
  • Commit more deliberately
  • Distinguish between no- and yes-fall zones
  • Make appropriate risk decisions
  • Improve body and mind awareness
  • Rest effectively
  • Improve breathing
  • Reduce fear

Don’t delay; spaces are limited; some clinics are already full.

No risk, money back guarantee. If you don’t feel the clinic benefited you, I’ll refund your money.

Register by contacting Arno:
615-406-3404, orders@warriorsway.com, or wwSiteLink
13013-Arno_Gilgamesh-w900-h700
Arno demonstrating his mental fitness.