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Meadow in the Sky – A Tour of the Tuolumne Meadows bouldering by Walker Emerson

 Belmont, Blog, Gear, San Francisco, Staff, Sunnyvale, Trip Report  Comments Off on Meadow in the Sky – A Tour of the Tuolumne Meadows bouldering by Walker Emerson
Jun 252015
 
Kenny tank boulder PG blog-1180609

Kenny Manuel enjoying a V1 on the Tank Boulder

When I first thumbed through the new bouldering guide book for Tuolumne Meadows, I thought to myself, “Theres no good bouldering in Tuolumne.” But I was dead wrong. Spoiled by the glitz and glamor that are common amongst guide books today, I first missed the essential features that make this book exceptional. It’s not flashy, but that is by design; it represents the locals’ attitude towards climbing. It is not out to sell you with a full spread of a climber on Thunderbird v12, the boulder that put Tuolumne bouldering on the map, or the new Holy Rails v13/14. Instead it is a guide for those who wish to pay homage to the mecca that is Tuolumne Meadows.

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Antonio Go slapping for the slopes on “Conquistador V8″

Bouldering in Tuolumne is nothing new; climbers such as Royal Robins and Warren Harding established some of the earliest boulder problems. Discarding their ascents as merely amusement, they left these boulders unnamed. Over the years climbers have ticked many of the boulders. Often problems went unreported and unrepeated for years, hidden gems in the forest climbed many times for the “first time”. Today there are many climbers establishing new problems in The Meadows. This past weekend a group of Planet Granite Route Setters including myself were invited on a tour with a few of the current developers in Tuolumne Meadows. Matt Arnold, Creg Pheris, and Lucho Rivera have put up hundreds of new problems here and were kind enough to take us to some of the new stuff and a few old classics.

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Lucho Rivera on the Pywiak Boulder

The new guide book lists over 1,200 problems at 32 different climbing areas. With countless features such as sun and shade conditions, pictures of the parking areas, and star ratings for each bouldering area. Rich bios from the current crew of climbers personalizes the  guide, giving the book a face. It is obvious that the author, Charlie Barret, has spent a great deal of time focusing on the details that make a guide book extremely functional, elevating it from the depths of your pack into your hands as you follow its precise directions towards the promised gems.

The first day, we rallied at the parking lot for May Lake. This is the first area listed in the book, which is ordered west to east along highway 120. Matt Arnold spent a summer in 2007 at the high sierra camp on the edge of the lake and established many of the areas problems. May Lake is one of the most beautiful settings I have ever climbed in. The Tuolumne domed skyline dots the horizon while the deep sapphire water sparkles against the blue sky.

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May Lake with Cathedral Peak, Matthest Crest and Tenya Peak on the horizon

We climbed some warm ups on the edge of the lake. Matt showed us a project that are listed in the book, I got pretty psyched and made some
efforts to jump for the holds above the uneven landing, but even with six pads it was hard to commit to the jump. We then hiked a few minutes to the infamous Battle Tank, a large hunk of a boulder with a steep 30 foot roof. The rock in this zone is a swirly sedimentary mix a 150 million years old, and was transported 250 miles from the Mojave desert to the top of the Sierra Mountains during a tectonic upheaval. The problems range from vertical V0 to steep 25 move V12s. We crawled under the boulder to explore the holds on the belly of the beast, the cool air under the rock ignited my psych. I traced the obvious line with my eyes, a big rail that spans the entire roof. Matt sprayed me down for the flash attempt. Spinning around and knee baring through the roof I managed to flash “Heavy Artillery V9” which was pretty exciting. Lucho finished up the classic “Hand Grenade V8”  he had been working. We then all tried a problem Creg had put up called “PBR Prow V6” We finished the day by hoofing it past the May Lake to another erratic called The Tank. This is a huge boulder with a dozen problems. Finishing off the day on “Crank Tank V7” and “Solo Endeavors V9” we hiked to the car in the evening light with sore legs and sun burned arms.

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Danny Harris on the “Giving Tree v9/10″

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Danny Harris on the “Giving Tree v9/10″

The Battle Tanks area is definitely worth checking out. It is one of the best zones in Tuolumne Meadows, getting three stars in the book and is worth every step of the hike.

The next day, we got an early start and drove to Olmsted Point, the second area listed in the guide. It can be pretty rough hiking around at elevation, so we were psyched that the boulders were road side. Danny, Antonio, and I got really psyched on “The Giving Tree V9/10” two really big moves on perfect crimps. I managed to send, and Danny and Antonio got super close, they’ll be back soon. We then also check out the an older problem called “Conquistador V8” and “The Roof V4”. We Finished the day with a swim in Tenaya Lake.

A new era is descending upon Tuolumne Meadows. Crash pads are joining ropes and racks on the sparkling granite, the age of the boulderer in Tuolumne has arrived. Never has Tuolumne seen so many psyched strong climbers seeking out new limits amongst the trees and glacial polished slabs of the meadows. The Guide book is a great tool to get going in Tuolumne Meadows; there are dozens of excellent lines to keep all levels of climbers busy for a season or two. Most of the lines listed in the book have been climbed only in the last 10 years, and new ones are going up every weekend. After spending a few weekends with the book, get out and see what you can find. Let’s spread out and minimize our impact while maximizing the climbing in Tuolumne Meadows.

“The climbing is epic and endless, it just depends on where your vision and feet can take it. Don’t let a book dictate what you do or where you go, be open and keep exploring.” -Matt Arnold

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Tenaya Lake under the stars

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Tuolumne Meadows Bouldering Guidebook is available at your local Planet Granite!

Interested in picking up a copy of the new Tuoloumne guidebook?  We have it all of our Planet Granite gyms – and members receive 10% off!

 

 

 

 

 

 


walker bio photo
Walker Emerson is a contributing writer for the Planet Granite Blog. He also sets routes at Planet Granite under the alias ‘Smash’. When he’s not plugging grips and jugging lines, he can be found on weekends clipping bolts at Jailhouse or sailing the granite seas of Yosemite.

To keep up with Walker’s adventures, follow him on the PG Blog, join him on InstagramVimeo and Facebook.

A Visit From St. Nicholas at PG San Francisco ~ by Reinhard Cate

 Gear, San Francisco, Staff  Comments Off on A Visit From St. Nicholas at PG San Francisco ~ by Reinhard Cate
Dec 262014
 
A Visit From St. Nicholas at PG San Francisco ~ by Reinhard Cate

Written by PG San Francisco Instructor Reinhard Cate  Twas the night before Christmas, when all through San Francisco PG, not a climber was stirring not even ‘EAC’. (Eliot A. Carlsen) Ropes were hung from the anchors with care, in hopes that psyched climbers soon would be there. The staff were bivvied all snug in their beds; Read more…

THE PG HOLIDAY TICK LIST – Gear|Style|Art – Gifts For Every PG Member!

 Gear, Retail  Comments Off on THE PG HOLIDAY TICK LIST – Gear|Style|Art – Gifts For Every PG Member!
Dec 022014
 
THE PG HOLIDAY TICK LIST - Gear|Style|Art - Gifts For Every PG Member!

2014 HOLIDAY TICK LIST  Created just for YOU by Planet Granite! *Don’t forget! All PG Members receive 10% OFF in the Gear Shop! FUNCTION & STYLE PACKS FROM ORGANIC, MAMMUT, PATAGONIA, PETZL, BLACK DIAMOND & METOLIUS  Want to know a little secret of the setting team’s ability to crush hard boulder problems? A RAD looking pack on Read more…

Give the Gift of Gear! PG’s HOLIDAY GEAR SALE

 Gear, Retail  Comments Off on Give the Gift of Gear! PG’s HOLIDAY GEAR SALE
Dec 022014
 
Give the Gift of Gear! PG's HOLIDAY GEAR SALE

PG’S ANNUAL HOLIDAY GEAR SALE  Give the gift of brand new gear! FROM TODAY UNTIL DECEMBER 15TH! *SPORT CLIMBERS: Quickdraw Packages just for YOU!*    40% OFF CAMP Photon Wire Rack Pack ($59.95)  |  SALE PRICE $35.97 40% OFF CAMP Mixed Express Quickdraw 5-pack ($89.95)  |  SALE PRICE $53.97 15% OFF when you buy 6 or Read more…

Your Guide to Ropes @PG

 Gear, Retail, Staff Picks  Comments Off on Your Guide to Ropes @PG
Nov 022014
 
Your Guide to Ropes @PG

Gear Guide by PG San Francisco Instructor Cody Blank So you’re interested in buying either your first rope or maybe working on expanding your rope quiver! I’ll go through the 5 most common rope buying experiences we get here in at Planet Granite. Then I’ll list the ropes we sell that are fit for each situation Read more…