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Planet Granite Logo New PG Portland Gym opening in 2014! PG San Francisco Climbing Yoga & Fitness Gym Planet Granite Belmont Climbing Yoga & Fitness Gym PG Sunnyvale Climbing Yoga and Fitness Gym

Planet Granite

Jan 302015
 

Tapeless setting blog images-05Planet Granite is pleased to announce that we want to explore going tapeless with all of our routes and boulder problems in our Sunnyvale location! We’re going to test it out first with a section of bouldering, so keep your eyes peeled in the next few days.  To explain why we’re doing this and how this will work, I sat down with our Director of Routesetting, Bret Johnston.

KP: Hi Bret, this is a pretty big change, particularly for bouldering.  Why do you want to make the switch to going tapeless?

BJ: Hey Kalie, it is a big change, but one that I’m really excited about.  Monochomatic (tapeless) setting in my mind is the only way routesetting should be done these day. It is my goal to turn Planet Granite into the envy of all climbing gyms. I believe that we have some of the most talented setters in the country and I want to be able to give them all of the resources to perform at their potential. I believe that this is a crucial step in that process.

Tapeless setting blog images-02 As for why, there are a bunch of reasons, but to name a few: without tape we are left with a much cleaner look to the walls. The tape often gets beaten up very quickly which makes it harder to differentiate climbs or gives an unappealing look to the wall. The clearest way to mark a hold is the by the color of that hold.

We also create a ton of waste with the tape. In an effort to be a more green company, this is an important step.

The last and most important reason I would like to dive into is quality of product. With the use of tape, it actually takes a much longer amount of time to set a climb in comparison to not using tape – the difference is incredible. I would say it takes me about twice as long to set a cTapeless setting blog images-04limb with tape.  Switching to tapeless will allow us to spend more time forerunning and make sure the standards of quality are even higher for our customers.

 

KP: Do you see this rolling out in just bouldering or route climbing (lead) areas too?

BJ: Our goal is to do this everywhere.  It is clear that it works in the top rope areas with the colors we have now. However, we are first doing a test run in a Sunnyvale bouldering area to see how it works and gather member feedback.  So please let us know your thoughts! Your feedback is invaluable.

Tapeless setting blog images-06
KP: You mentioned the environmental impact.  How much waste will this actually prevent?

BJ: Well, each roll of duct tape is about 200 feet long and we go through hundreds of rolls each year, so…it’s a lot. A modest estimate would be that we use about 80,000 feet of duct tape each year. Take 26 El Capitans and stack them on top of each other and that’s what it looks like. I would love for the number to be around 1,000 feet per year which is definitely achievable with this new system.

 

KP: I’m having some trouble visualizing this, will you be able to keep the same density of climbs on the wall with just colored holds? 

Tapeless setting blog images-07BJ: We will be able to keep the same density with the addition of two new colors, white and brown. This will ensure that the climbers at PG have just as much variety while still achieving the tapeless look on the walls.  It might look less dense, but that’s because the tape will be missing!  Plus, if you’ve noticed, we have been testing out setting with monochromatic holds to make sure it would work by setting with matching colored holds and tape at the same time. With the new colors in the system it will be an easy transition.

Plus this means a TON of new holds for the gyms – to prep for this test run, I ordered nearly 3,000 lbs. of holds!

 

KP: How will I know where the start of a climb is if there isn’t tape to identify it?

BJ: We have come up with a system that no other climbing gyms use to mark the start position. It involves a reusable placard that has minimal opportunity for waste. There will be a colored washer indicating which placard goes with which start hold that will identify the grade and setter for that climb.

 

KP: What, if any, issues do you see with this system?

BJ: As with any change, there will be an adjustment period, but I’m confident the overall product will be better.  The biggest challenge will be differentiating similar colors – ie orange and pink, or blue and purple.  However, it is the responsibility of myself and the setting team to ensure we’re separating common colors enough so it’s not confusing.

 

PG Portland Bouldering

Planet Granite Portland and PDX Head Setter Josh Haynes showing off their clean tapeless walls.

KP: Do other facilities use this system and does it work?

BJ: Yes, many climbing gyms already use this system. Most new gyms open this way. A great example of it working really well is the new PG up in Portland. They have been using the monochromatic system since opening and it is working very well.

 

KP: Is this just going to be in Sunnyvale or are we going to see tapeless in all of the gyms soon?

BJ: My end goal is to have all PG gyms tapeless by the end of the year. We are testing it out in Sunnyvale because it is our busiest gym and we will get the most feedback from that demographic. I appreciate all feedback in regards to routesetting at PG. It helps us improve and our end goal is the same as the members. We want a fun climbing environment with climbs available for every demographic.

 

KP: Thanks Bret for your time!  I’m excited to see this roll out.

BJ: Thanks Kalie, me too.

 

The setters will be rolling out tapeless holds this Monday,  February 2nd, in the Learning Center, followed by the Prow and 10 Degree Wall.  Bret will be available Monday-Wednesday in Sunnyvale to talk all things tape with you!  Please let us know your thoughts!  

Jan 252015
 

 

STANDING TRX with Lauren

 Throw back..Monday to a really effective all body workout with TRX!  This WOW is designed to strengthen your legs, hips, and core. 

Planet Granite Workout of the Week Logo

TIME: 15 – 20 minutes
DIFFICULTY:  All levels
EQUIPMENT: TRX suspension straps plus an anchor point
FOCUS: Strength, Core, Stability

 


Lauren Sah bio picture
ABOUT LAUREN SAH ~ As a sports massage therapist, fitness trainer, and sports nutritionist, Lauren has a passionate understanding of the human body. As a competitive and recreational athlete, she can meet sports specific training needs or just help with that weight loss goal! Lauren guarantees to challenge you but still keep you smiling! Her certifications include: ACE Certified Personal Trainer, a TRX Group Fitness Instructor and a CMTC Certified Massage Therapist. Lauren teaches the Total Body Fitness Class @PG Belmont on Tuesdays & Thursdays at 6:15pm. *For personal training contact Lauren at totalbodyhealth@hotmail.com.
 

 


*Want each WOW delivered to your inbox?

Sign up for WOW Click here to receive an email every Monday with a brand new video of the week!

 


 

IMPORTANT: Climbing and climbing training, such as the exercises in the WOW, are inherently dangerous activities.  Participation in these exercises is done at your own risk.  If you have any injuries, we recommend you do not attempt a WOW.  If you have any concerns about your abilities or the exercises, consult a qualified medical practitioner or athletic trainer. Before using the fitness area, equipment, classes or any other training at Planet Granite, it is your responsibility to read and understand the posted gym rules and Safety Guidelines found here: http://www.planetgranite.com/climbing/training/training_safetyguidelines.php
Jan 192015
 

CAMPUS BOARD TRAINING with Lucas

 Four advanced exercises to train on the campus board. 

Planet Granite Workout of the Week Logo

TIME: 10-15 minutes
DIFFICULTY:  Advanced
EQUIPMENT: Campus Board
FOCUS: Finger & Upper Body Strength


*Want each WOW delivered to your inbox?

Sign up for WOW Click here to receive an email every Monday with a brand new video featuring Crux of the Week, Tip of the Week or Workout of the Week!

 


 

IMPORTANT: Climbing and climbing training, such as the exercises in the WOW, are inherently dangerous activities.  Participation in these exercises is done at your own risk.  If you have any injuries, we recommend you do not attempt a WOW.  If you have any concerns about your abilities or the exercises, consult a qualified medical practitioner or athletic trainer. Before using the fitness area, equipment, classes or any other training at Planet Granite, it is your responsibility to read and understand the posted gym rules and Safety Guidelines found here: http://www.planetgranite.com/climbing/training/training_safetyguidelines.php
Jan 152015
 

 

Play <—click here to listen to the podcast!

Check out this recent interview Bret Johnston, our Dir. of Setting for Planet Granite, did with John Blomquist of Chalk Talk, a Climbing Industry Podcast!   Chalk Talk posts new podcasts every Friday – the perfect time to rev up the psyche on your drive out to your weekend project!

Last week, Bret sat down with John and answered questions about routesetting as a career, what he looks for in setters when hiring them and what makes a great setter, both in competitive and commercial environments.  Listen in for some insider scoops on routesetting and what it’s like to have been part of climbing gyms your whole life.

Plus be sure to check out Chalk Talk’s website for more cool podcasts with others at the top of their game in the climbing industry.  And for another treat – check out Bret in the below video of him crushing Dr Evil, 5.14a at Little Si!

 

Jan 122015
 

*Want each WOW delivered to your inbox?

Sign up for WOW Click here to receive an email every Monday with a brand new video featuring Crux of the Week, Tip of the Week or Workout of the Week!

 


GET HardCORE WITH THE PG CLIMBING TEAM
with Courtney

 Two exercises the climbing team use to strengthen core. 

Planet Granite Workout of the Week Logo

TIME: 10-15 minutes
DIFFICULTY:  Intermediate
EQUIPMENT: Stability ball and Pull-up bar
FOCUS: Core & Warm-up

 

IMPORTANT: Climbing and climbing training, such as the exercises in the WOW, are inherently dangerous activities.  Participation in these exercises is done at your own risk.  If you have any injuries, we recommend you do not attempt a WOW.  If you have any concerns about your abilities or the exercises, consult a qualified medical practitioner or athletic trainer. Before using the fitness area, equipment, classes or any other training at Planet Granite, it is your responsibility to read and understand the posted gym rules and Safety Guidelines found here: http://www.planetgranite.com/climbing/training/training_safetyguidelines.php
Jan 092015
 
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Planet Granite wins regional team champions! Pictured are coaches (top left) John Dennery, Isaac Williams, (bottom left) Travis Booher, Ryan Honda and Jason Crase.  photo by Jim Herson

 

Every weekday afternoon, you can find groups of excited little (to not so little) kids working crushing your projects.  These youth make up Planet Granite’s Climbing Team headed by coaches Ryan Honda (PG Belmont), Isaac Williams (PG Sunnyvale) & Steve Lancaster (PG San Francisco).

Last month, the PG Climbing Team attended  NorCal Regionals and competed against other climbing teams in our northern California region.  With over 68 competitors, PG’s team was the largest presence by over 40 participants!  And of those 68 kids, over 30 scored high enough in their category and were invited to compete in Divisionals in Reno this Saturday!  Go Team!

CONGRATS to every climber!

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Photo by 100% Raw Media. Visit their Facebook page (click on the above photo) for more shots from the recent Regionals Competition!

 

(F=Female, M=Male, y=Youth, A/B/C/D = Category competed).

PG Climbing Team @Regionals PG Climbing Team invited to Divisionals
Qwyneth Wong FyD Gwyneth Wong FyD
Emma Joing FyD Emma Joing FyD
Teresa Vltavsky FyD Tersa Vltavsky FyD
Calvin Cha MyD Calvin Cha MyD Regional Champion 1st
Benjamin Shwartzman MyD Benjamin Shwartzman MyD 3rd
Matthais Anderson MyD Matthais Anderson MyD
Phoebe Wong FyC Phoebe Wong FyC 3rd
Greta Foehr FyC Greta Foehr FyC
Chloe Austerfield FyC Chloe Austerfield FyC
Aleksandra Solodilov FyC Aleksandra Solodilov FyC
Svetlana Solodilov FyC Svetlana Solodilov FyC
Maya Hsu FyC Conner Herson MyC Regional Champion 1st
Haley Swenson FyC Marek Hertzler MyC 3rd
Faith Siebe FyC Daniel Seo MyC
Conner Herson MyC Anthony Lesik MyC
Marek Rogers MyC Kathryn Garcia FyB 3rd
Daniel Seo MyC Zoe Wong FyB
Anthony Lesik MyC Maddie Dong FyB
Mark Merrem MyC Samuel Espiritu Pico MyB 2nd
William Voorsanger MyC Sam Mcqueen MyB
Gregory Shklovski MyC Samantha Martin FyA
Micheal Santullo MyC Madison Cline FyA
Ahmet Aybay MyC Nate Linden MyA 2nd
Kathryn Garcia FyB Prabowo Halim MyA 3rd
Zoe Wong FyB Aleksander Antic MyA
Maddie Dong FyB Timothy Kang MyA
Katherine Raubenheimer FyB Jacob Scharfman MyA
Sami Linden FyB Courtney Ceran FjR 2nd
Kendall Tinianov FyB Ana Sofia Amieva-Wang FjR
Paige Shukwit FyB Alexei Likhtenberg MjR 2nd
Meshi Shachaf FyB Paul Lego MjR
Samantha Jaehing FyB
Tai Shwartzman FyB
Abigail Santullo FyB
Alaina Keys FyB
Nicole Agranonik FyB
Bella Chierici FyB
Samuel Espiritu Pico MyB
Sam Mcqueen MyB
Jaren Hohmann MyB
Ross Fulkerson MyB
Alex Berlaga MyB
Sam Holbrook MyB
Samantha Martin FyA
Madison Cline FyA
Kara Herson FyA
Leta Dickson FyA
Sophia Miller FyA
Emilie Sklar FyA
Natalie Renfrew FyA
Nate Linden MyA
Prabowo Halim MyA
Aleksander Antic MyA
Timothy Kang MyA
Jacob Scharfman MyA
Matthew Irwin MyA
Aidan Linscott MyA
Thierry De Crespigny MyA
Justin Pierce MyA
Losif Sobol MyA
John Peterson MyA
Ethan Lipka MyA
Ted Peterson MyA
Courtney Ceran FjR
Ana Sofia Amieva-Wang FjR
Alexei Likhtenberg MjR
Paul Lego MjR
David Cook MjR
Brennan Robinson MjR
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Photos in this collage taken by 100% Raw Media. Visit their Facebook Page for more shots!