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Planet Granite

Dec 302013
 

After years of looking for the perfect spot,
we’ve found an amazing location in West LA,
near the 405/10 interchange!

We just couldn’t hold back this exciting news!
We have already begun dreaming of what we can do with this amazing space,
offering climbing, yoga and fitness
in this 31,000 sq ft building!
As if that building isn’t big enough,
we’re planning to add on 5,000 sq ft outside!

That gives us over 36,000 sq ft
of climbing yoga & fitness in West LA!

Dec 192013
 
photo by Tom Evans

Mike and Walker working the Golden Desert pitch, 5.13a. Photo by Tom Evans. Borrowed from his site: http://www.elcapreport.com/

It’s been ‘splitter’ weather here in Yosemite, and I’ve been taking full advantage of it. Every Friday I make the 4 plus hour drive to the valley and bang my head against some small part of the massive monolith that is El Capitan. This is my 3rd season climbing on El Cap and I’m finally beginning to feel comfortable and relaxed enough to focus on the climbing. It’s pretty tiring being stressed out 3000 feet in the air, but things are becoming easier and like I said, I’m now able to focus.

This season got off to a late start. Just when things started to cool down in Yosemite, a fire broke out outside the park, burning hundreds of thousands of acres and filling the park with unbearable smoke. Although the valley remained unscarred by the fire, it was impossible to be there for weeks. After the fires died down, I headed straight to the top of El Cap with a huge bag of rope. Having used this method the year before to prepare for Freerider, I knew it was the best way to attack this massive wall.

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A smokey Valley

With my sights set on Golden Gate, I rappelled over the edge where I was pretty sure the climb topped out. Not far down I found a ledge with a single bolt for an anchor. I clipped it and continued down the wall, passing two massive pitches described in the topo as razor 5.11. I was surprised to find number two and three sized hand cracks. I realized that what made these pitches “R” rated were that the flakes were so thin that they would not sustain the outward force of a camalot. Similar to Waverfly Wafer at the Cookie Cliff, climbing these pitches at the end of the push, when you are tired from days on the wall, will certainly be scary.

Over the next two weekends I worked the A5 Traverse 5.13a, which intersects with the bottom of the razor flakes, and the Golden Desert 5.13a, which is just below that. These four pitches are the best on the entire route and you want to have all of them dialed. My good friend Mike Kerzhner, whom I’ve climbed a lot with over the years, joined me in my efforts. We stashed food, water and sleeping bags to eliminate any hauling during the climb, and prepared for a push the following weekend.

We drove into the park at 6am to discover a dozen other cars parked in meadow. We parked the car, threw our food bins and coolers into the bear lockers, double checked that we had everything, and hurried into the woods to the base of El Cap. We climbed quickly, making it through the 5.11+ friction slab pitches before the sun hit the wall. As we came over The Mammoth Terraces we saw a single aid climber a few pitches above the Hollow Flake. Mike and I climbed as quickly as possible through this section, which requires a 100 foot down climb in order to free the route. I kept looking up at the aid climber above who was moving with incredible speed! Not only was he climbing every pitch, he was rappelling down to retrieve the gear, then jugging back up and hauling the bag!

As we approached the Monster Off Width, we started to catch up. To the right of the Monster OW is a thinner crack that is standard for aid parties. Forgoing the large cams for smaller ones and micro nuts, this is the preferred route for most parties. But to our astonishment we discovered that he was going via the Monster; not only was he solo climbing the Monster, he was actually free climbing it with no assistance from the number six cam! Our mouths dropped. It was hard enough climbing that thing with someone feeding out slack for you, but to have the entire rope in a grocery bag hanging off your harness while feeding yourself rope out with a grigri, is just ridiculous. As we watched, he made quick progress, popping out of the crack to lay it back in true ‘euro fashion’. He clipped the anchors clean and rappelled back to us at the bottom of the pitch. “Hey I’m Jorg. How’s it going?” I explained that we started climbing this morning. “Oh” he said. “You guys are climbing fast.” We laughed and replied “No my friend, it is you who is climbing fast.” As he jugged back up the Monster I shouted “Can I clip our gear onto the bottom of your haulbag if I help you haul it?” “Yeah no worries, you don’t need to help though” he answered. I thought to myself how awesome is this -the solo climber is helping the party of two!

After chatting at the alcove for an hour and waiting for the evening temps, we continued up one more pitch to a 12c down climb that is the first pitch of the Golden Gate. Having tried it in the full sun the weekend before with no success, I knew the sequence and hoped for the best. Mike went first and sent on his second try. I went next and still fell in the same place: a hand to foot match with a tenuous mantle. I pulled back up into the stance and tried again. With the same results I just couldn’t get my foot off of the hold in order to step down. I pulled out an alcohol wipe from my back pocket and swabbed the toes of my shoes and my fingers. I tried again with everything I had, completely forgetting that I was 2000 feet in the air. I took my foot off of the hold, replaced it with my hand and lowered my body onto the foot rail below. I took my hands off the wall and screamed. Agagaahhg!!!! I did it! With a few more moves to the ledge I crimped as hard as I could and stepped down on the ramp that would be our starting point in the morning. We lowered to the Alcove to see Jorg’s smiling face, “You guys send?” he asked. “Yeah, we’re on point!!” Jorg, Mike and I stuffed our faces with everything we had brought up: cans of fish, Bombay potato tasty bites, quinoa, candy, carrots, bars, trail mix. With our bellies full, we prepared for bed and set the alarm for 5am, hoping to climb the first half and one of the crux pitches, called “the Move pitch”, in the morning shade.

IMG_4291

Lucho Rivera working “The Move” pitch, a 5.13a face climb sparsely protected by a few bolts.

We arrive at the Move pitch: a 5.12 sparsely bolted face climb ending with a V7 boulder problem. Mike takes the lead and on his first attempt he falls on the final move of the boulder problem. He lowers to the foot rest at the bottom and clips the entire rack and his water bottle to the bolt. With a light harness and a clean conscience he tries again, this time sticking the final move of the boulder problem. “That’s a bit easier  without all that weight!” he yells. With no tag line we are forced to distribute the weight between us. I go next and a few moves off the anchor I’m  unable to reach the next hold. I smear my feet high and crimp down really, really hard to try and figure the sequence out. Having never tried this section before, I slip. I return to the anchor. On my second attempt I climb clean to the boulder problem. I stand at the foot ledge and have Mike take. He lowers a loop of rope and I clip the gear onto it. I send the boulder problem first try without the extra weight. I take the next few pitches and we arrive at the bottom of the Golden Desert 5.13a. We pull onto the large sloping ledge and chug the water that we had stashed the weekend before. Its mid-day and we are baking in the sun. We lay waiting for the wind to pick up and whine to each other about how hot it is, and how we should of waited for better temps. Just as we were beginning to lose hope, the wind begins to blow and the temperature drops. I put my puffy coat on and grin. We got this!

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The Golden Hour on El Cap

Mike takes off on the Golden Desert; it begins with a V6 undercling traverse that is super balancey and very awkward. Mike climbs clean through the boulder problem and up through the thin hands section to the bottom of the thin tips. He clips one piece and runs it out to the hand jam; at the end he lets out a hoot as he sticks the finish. I follow. This pitch is hard for me; it’s steep tips lay-backing with bad feet, and I have trouble getting my fat fingers into the crack. Mike sent this pitch last weekend but I had yet to send this 15 foot section. I climb quickly not stopping to think about the difficulty or that my fingers don’t really fit; one hand over the next, keep the feet high. This is easy I think to myself, why am I not getting pumped?! I guess I just need 2,500 feet to warm up properly. I sink the hand jam at the end and let out a howl. Only one crux left to go!

We hang at the anchor below the A5 Traverse 5.13a. It’s my lead and I try to rest  as long as I can, giving myself the best possible chance of sending. But the hanging belay forces me to give it a go after only 10 minutes of waiting. I execute my beta perfectly and with not a single hint of pump, I clip the anchors. Its over! I’ve done it! Mike and I both celebrate. Now Mike’s just gotta do it and it’s in the bag. Last week Mike fell a few times on this pitch so I was a little worried for him. But if there’s one thing about Mike, he can seal the deal. I aid back across the traverse to retrieve all the gear from him so he can climb it with no extra weight. He follows clean and we rejoice. Only 4 more pitches to the top and we’ve sent Golden Gate!

I take the first 5.11r pitch and Mike takes the second, cursing me for telling him the wrong gear beta. One more pitch and we’re on top. Fatigued and worked, we smile and high five. With the sun setting and a long hike ahead of us, we pack our stuff up and quickly make our way down the east ledges to the car. Turns out Jorg Verhoven also sent. Over 4 days he on-sighted every pitch except two, which he repeated clean, all the while belaying himself with a grigri. What an incredible weekend on El Cap!

walker bio photo

 

Walker Emerson, aka SMASH, has been climbing for over 10 years. He enjoys all types of climbing. He has free climbed two El Cap routes, red pointed 5.14b and bouldered V13, making him extremely well rounded in all aspects of climbing. He is inspired by long pitches and aesthetic climbs. Other interests include photography, film and food. 

 

Nov 252013
 

Planet Granite Workout of the Week Logo

Get ready, get psyched…WOW launches next week!

We all know that training for climbing can be a really great way to improve. But it can be tricky to decide what to do!

Introducing WOW! PG’s answer to providing you with the tools to take your climbing to the next level.

what is wow

Workout Of the Week takes the guesswork out of training!

We’ve pored over climbing books, scoured the best climbing blogs, and gotten input from our top climbers on staff, to find you the most effective and, most importantly, FUN workouts to improve your climbing.

WOW staff pics
Every Monday a new Workout Of the Week
will be released online and posted in your gym! 

A WOW will include detailed instructions, variations, pictures, and a video to walk you through each exercise; focusing on one or more of the  following topics- footwork, power, finger strength, body tension & core, endurance and flexibility.

wow on the web

To get each WOW delivered to your door subscribe to our Blog, follow us on Facebook or bookmark the WOW page.

Our new Workout Of the Week program will help you break through plateaus, achieve your climbing goals, and enhance your overall level of fitness.

Conditioning for climbing can be easy – get started next week with WOW!

IMPORTANT: Climbing and climbing training, such as the exercises in the WOW, are inherently dangerous activities.  Participation in these exercises is done at your own risk.  If you have any injuries, we recommend you do not attempt a WOW.  If you have any concerns about your abilities or the exercises, consult a qualified medical practitioner or athletic trainer.

Nov 252013
 

PG Circuit Training

Temps are looking good for those venturing outside to boulder, but for those who can’t make it out yet, don’t fret; Planet Granite San Francisco has something new and exciting to share with you!  Launching today, PG SF is pleased to start Circuit Training – a fun new way to maximize your time climbing!

What is a Circuit?

A circuit is a collection of established and linked-up climbs. The term “circuit” was first introduced to the climbing community in the 1920s in Fontainebleau, France, and was used primarily for warming up. With the advent of indoor climbing, a circuit refers to a selection of climbs.

Planet Granite Circuits.Legend

How to use Circuits.

Circuits can be used in a variety of ways. For newcomers to Planet Granite, our circuits provide an excellent sampling of our world-class setting. Circuits can work as a warm-up, a full session, or even a way to add variety to your regular routine. When done repeatedly, circuits can help you climb more efficiently.

Since we have 3 levels of Circuits, Novice, Intermediate and Advanced, climbers of all levels can enjoy a productive bouldering session, incorporating a variety of climbing styles, and work to improve all aspects of their climbing.

We will post 3 new circuits on the 1st of every month.  Since our setters are here more frequently, a circuit will be refreshed throughout the month if a wall is re-set.   Just another great reason to get on a Circuit every week!

Circuits at PG SF

Who makes the PG Circuit?

A core group of our staff will hand-pick problems for each circuit, taking into account the diverse group of climbers in our climbing community. Problems are chosen to incorporate a variety of grip types, climbing styles and crux moves, with the goal of improving your overall climbing ability.

Circuit.number

Where to find your Circuit.

Each problem that is part of a Circuit will be labeled by a colored “C” and a number.  The color indicates the difficulty of the Circuit and the number suggests an order.  At the entrance to PG SF, there is a map showing where each Circuit problem starts.

For more information, check out our Training Tips this coming Tuesday, November 26th with Mike at PG SF!

Stay tuned – coming to a PG near you!

A HUGE thanks to the talented Ivan Cua and Kalie Patterson for their amazing design work.

Oct 022013
 

Team of 2 - Poster - Hell on Ropes

Team of 2 is back and ready to push you harder!  In this small group session, work with Justen and Kris for a dedicated 4 hours of hands on coaching and training.

HELL ON ROPES

Workout details:
This exciting training day is all about first hand experience working together with a coach and a trainer who will provide feedback during the 4 hours of intense training.  Focus will be on Ropes, System Board Training and Fitness Training.

Minimum Climbing Ability: 5.10+ and up
Location: Planet Granite Sunnyvale Saturday October 19th 8:30am-12:30pm
$175 | $185 non-members

Contact Justen Sjong to sign up: justensjong@gmail.com
Travel - Private Poster - PG Oct 2013

 

Team of 2 One-on-One Private Sessions

This is a great opportunity to work with some of the best in the industry.   Justen and Kris each bring a unique style of training and coaching to their programs to target your trouble areas.

Climbing Coach – Justen Sjong – email JUSTEN to sign up!
If you need a complete evaluation of your current climbing skills, sign up for a one-on-one with Justen.  You will gain a clear understanding of what skills you need to focus on to further your climbing and reach your goals.  Check out this recent article on Justen that highlights his approach to climbing coaching.

Athletic Trainer – Kris Peters – email KRIS to sign up!
If you want to take your climbing to the next level, Kris Peters is your trainer!  He incorporates his background in fitness training to figure out where climbers need to strengthen and build, combining exercises based in TRX, body weight and resistance exercises, hang board and campus board circuits as well as including laps and 4x4s on the climbing wall to increase your power and endurance.   His session will be designed around your specific goals and will tailor a program to suit your needs.

Location & Dates
PG San Francisco – Friday October 18th from 8am-5pm
PG Sunnyvale – Saturday October 19th from 1pm-8pm
PG Sunnyvale – Sunday October 20th from 8am-4pm

Rates
Members – 1 hour $75 | 2 hours $145
Non-Members – 1 hour $85 | 2 hours $155

Email Kris or Justen to sign up!

Sep 232013
 

Recently, PG Belmont hosted  InnVision Shelter Network for a day of climbing, bouldering and all around fun!  InnVision Shelter Network (IVSN) is dedicated to helping homeless families and individuals across Silicon Valley and the San Francisco Peninsula return to permanent housing and self-sufficiency. They provide safe, clean, and modern shelter, as well as nutritious food, counseling services, childcare and after-school activities, job and housing search assistance, and additional supportive services. We were excited to be able to give back to our community by sharing our passion for climbing with them!  

My name is Rabiya Wasi and I work as a children’s services coordinator for InnVision Shelter Network at the Opportunity Center in Palo Alto, CA. InnVision Shelter Network provides a children’s summer camp, Summer Adventures, during the months of June, July and August. This day-camp offers children a wide variety of field trips and experiences, both educational and fun. Since we do not want any child to feel excluded due to economic barriers, there is no fee for the camp. Therefore, we rely on a lot of organizations to help us make our summer the best it can be.

Rabi

For Summer Adventures 2013, I wanted to do something different and slightly challenging with the kids. Most of the kids I work with are naturally athletic and daring (based on plenty of antics I’ve seen at the park.) I thought of rock climbing while looking for athletic activities for the kids and realized we had to do this. Seriously, when was the last time the average person rock climbed? That’s where Planet Granite came to the rescue. Their assistant manager, Jeremy Spitz, responded to my call for help in planning a trip to Planet Granite in Belmont.  He supported us by providing us belay lessons and setting up a date for the kids to come in and climb.

Rabi

What was so cool about the belay lessons was that first of all, it taught my volunteers and I a new skill. In the monotony of summer camp, this was a nice break we all needed. It also taught us how to work together as a group and helped us develop more camaraderie. I’m sure it was scary for some of our volunteers too. I mean, those walls are high! Our kids were excited to go to Planet Granite as it was somewhere they have never gone before. After wearing the harness and helmets the first thing I heard from one of the campers was “this is so cool!” The kids were not shy about climbing the walls and I was surprised they did so well! We did have a few that became unsure of themselves mid-climbing however, with a little more time and encouragement, they were able to overcome their fears and conquer the wall! This was beautiful to see. One of coolest moments was when the kids were allowed to swing through the air and safely land on the mats. If I didn’t know any better I’d think they were little Tarzans going through the jungle!

The staff from “point a” to “point b” were amazing! Whether it was working with me, or giving us belay lessons and working with the kids on our field trip, I couldn’t have asked for a better experience. I look forward to bringing back our group for our summer camp next year. Thank you so much, Planet Granite Belmont, for such an unforgettable experience.