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May 282014
 

 Health & Wellness @Planet Granite

For this article in our Health & Wellness series we reached out to local physical therapist and athlete Caroline Bourcier.

With over 25 years of experience in the fitness and physical therapy fields, and a life-long athlete herself, she really has seen it all! Many members of our community have worked with her and raved about their experience. 

We contacted Caroline to get the scoop on shoulder health. 

How can we tell if we have an imbalance in our shoulders? 

 ** The information in these articles are submitted by various professionals in the industry who are not employed by or representatives of Planet Granite.   If you have an injury or more questions regarding the topics addressed on our blog,  please consult a qualified medical practitioner.  Before beginning any fitness program, you should have a complete physical examination by your physician.**


 The 4 Tests Every Climber Needs to Pass…
So You Can Climb Until You’re 80

Guest Post by Caroline Bourcier, MSPT

As a physical therapist I see a lot of climbers with shoulder injuries, especially in those above the age of thirty. Given the demands climbing places on the shoulder I’m always surprised when a climber is surprised that their shoulder is beginning to hurt.  Let me explain why…

The shoulder joint is persnickety – it requires balance to stay happy.

Specifically, the shoulder requires three things to stay injury free:

  1. Balance of strength in the posterior musculature relative to the anterior musculature
  2. Balance of flexibility/mobility in the muscles and connective tissue from front to back
  3. Sufficient coordination and timing of muscle recruitment in the arm and shoulder blade

Let’s break these down and see how this applies to you…

Test # 1

 Stand up and let your arms dangle at your sides. Now look down.

  • Which way are your palms are facing?
  • Do they face your thighs, your butt or somewhere in between?
  • Is one arm rotated inward more than the other?

Test 1
If they are facing anywhere but towards your thighs, you might be setting yourself up for an impingement.

Because climbing strengthens the lats and the pecs (both strong internal rotators) disproportionately, not only can these muscles become tight, their antagonists- the external rotators –can easily be overpowered.

In a shoulder with tight internal rotators, as you raise your arms above shoulder height, you have less space under the acromion for the rotator cuff and bursa. Done repeatedly, this can cause the supraspinatus (rotator cuff) or the bursa to be pinched and become inflamed. Chronically, it can cause tears in the rotator cuff.

Test # 2

Reach your left hand behind your back, touching the top of your right shoulder blade.

Can you reach your shoulder blade? If so, do you have any pinching or pain on the top of your shoulder?

Now reach your left hand behind your back as in the picture on the right and touch the bottom of your right shoulder blade.

  • Can you reach your shoulder blade?
  • Do you have pain in the front or the back of your shoulder?
  • Is your movement symmetrical in both shoulders?

Test 2
These two tests require full mobility of your shoulders to their end ranges of motion- flexion and external rotation in the first example and extension and internal rotation in the second.

Keep these flexible and you’ll ward off rotator cuff impingement, biceps tendonitis and chronic labral tears (keep reading to find out how).

If you have pain or pinching in the top or front of your shoulder you may want to consult with a physical therapist to have them mobilize your joint capsule.  Normal joint mechanics are essential to long term health and injury prevention, especially in the shoulder.

Test # 3

Place your right hand on top of your left shoulder, then raise your right elbow as high as you can towards the ceiling.

  • Do you have any pain in the top or front of your shoulder?

Test 3

While the first two tests are looking for ideal mobility to prevent impingements and other injuries, this test is more sensitive and suggests a problem may already exist.

If this reproduces a familiar pain that occurs during or after climbing and has persisted for more than two weeks, you should consider seeking out professional advice.

 Test # 4

Test # 4 With your right elbow bent 90 degrees, grasp your right wrist with your left hand.

Keeping your elbow glued to your waist, push your forearm outward to the right, resisting with your opposite hand.  Do this with a maximum effort.

  • Does it feel weak or painful?

While this is not a perfect test, it is a quick look at your posterior rotator cuff muscles. The importance of keeping these muscles strong should never be underestimated.

Almost every shoulder problem is helped by strengthening your external rotators!

The Bottom Line

Whether it’s your shoulder or any other body part that’s giving you grief, the best use of your exercise time is to:

  1. Strengthen what’s weak 
  2. Stretch what’s tight

It really is that simple.

We tend to want to do what we are good at and avoid those things we are not good at.

But it’s working on our weaknesses that makes us well-rounded athletes and keeps us injury free.  Oftentimes, just adding a 10 minute routine to the beginning or end of your climbing can keep you injury free – through the decades…

*STAY TUNED FOR PART 2 -
CAROLINE’S FAVORITE  STRETCHES & EXERCISES FOR CLIMBERS*

 


*SPECIAL OFFER FOR PG MEMBERS*

Schedule your 1st appointment with Caroline during the month of June
and receive a special 20% OFF discount! 


Caroline

 

ABOUT - Caroline Bourcier, MSPT is the owner of Thrive Physical Therapy in Mill Valley, CA.  She has over 25 years experience in the fitness and physical therapy fields and is a former competitive and life-long athlete.

She is passionate about all activities in the outdoors, helping athletes stay young and injury free, and raising money and awareness for the Breast Cancer Fund.

She can be reached at (415) 497-6557 or Caroline@thrive-pt.com if you have any questions about aches and pains that are slowing you down.

May 272014
 

 

Beta Babes header

COMES TO PG BELMONT & SUNNYVALE

After an awesome launch @PG San Francisco, BETA BABES is now offered at all 3 gyms!

WHAT IT IS: A women’s climbing club! Not a competition. Not a lesson. Just a friendly session!

No need to sign up. Just meet up with the female reps of the PG SF staff in the bouldering area and have at it!
Beta Babes

We’ll be climbing, trying hard, goofing off, and will be more than happy to offer beta and answer whatever climbing questions you may have!

WHO WILL BE THERE: Female climbers of all ages, levels and styles of climbing are welcome to join us.

WHY WE STARTED IT: We women of Planet Granite take a lot of joy in our climbing sessions with girls…and we want you to join us! We believe in inclusiveness, camaraderie, encouragement and fun.

WHEN: 

BELMONT – EVERY 3RD THURSDAY OF THE MONTH

SUNNYVALE - EVERY 3RD WEDNESDAY OF THE MONTH

SAN FRANCISCO – EVERY 3RD WEDNESDAY OF THE MONTH

May 272014
 

 

PROBLEM OF THE WEEK

problemof-the-weekPurple & Black V6 @PG San Francisco

LOCATION:  Freestanding Boulder
SET BY: Max (MZ)
CLIMBER: Brian (CZ) PG Assistant Head Setter
HOLDS: Teknik

May 192014
 

 

TRIGGER POINT SEEK & DESTROY with Mitch

This WOW features 3 techniques of self-care to eliminate trigger points.

Planet Granite Workout of the Week Logo

DIFFICULTY:  All levels
EQUIPMENT: Foam roller and lacrosse ball
FOCUS: Warm-up, Injury prevention, Bodywork

 

 


*Want each WOW delivered to your inbox?

Sign up for WOW Click here to receive each new workout in your inbox!

 


 

Planet Granite Workout of the Week Logo

IMPORTANT: Climbing and climbing training, such as the exercises in the WOW, are inherently dangerous activities.  Participation in these exercises is done at your own risk.  If you have any injuries, we recommend you do not attempt a WOW.  If you have any concerns about your abilities or the exercises, consult a qualified medical practitioner or athletic trainer. Before using the fitness area, equipment, classes or any other training at Planet Granite, it is your responsibility to read and understand the posted gym rules and Safety Guidelines found here: http://www.planetgranite.com/climbing/training/training_safetyguidelines.php
May 122014
 

 

Summer Membership
Stay fit and have fun this summer @Planet Granite!  

We make it easy with our Summer Student Memberships.

*Sign-up today at the front desk!*

May 092014
 

 

KIDS SUMMER CAMPS @PLANET GRANITE

Treat your child to a summer of adventure!

Summer Camps

Indoor climbing is an awesome sport for kids!  It’s fun and builds confidence and problem-solving skills for youngsters.  Treat your child to a summer of adventure climbing with us at Planet Granite!

Kids will explore all of the climbing features of the gym including bouldering walls, high roped walls, and more. During a week at Climbing Camp, our experienced instructors will get your kids climbing and playing climbing oriented games!

Camps are open to kids age 5-13 and run Monday through Friday, 1pm – 5pm. 

Week-long sessions run from June until August.

*Space is limited so call soon to reserve your spot(s)!

COST –  $280 per week per camper.*
*This includes five 4-hour sessions, harness rental, time with our amazing instructors and a PG t-shirt! 
SUMMER 2014
Sunnyvale 
(408) 991-9090
June 9th – June 13th
June 16th – June 20th
June 23rd – June 27th
July 7th – July 11th
July 14th – July 18th
July 21st – July 25th
July 28th – August 1st
August 4th – August 8th
August 11 – August 15th
Belmont
(650) 591-3030
June 16th – June 20th
June 23rd – June 27th
July 7th – July 11th
July 14th – July 18th
July 21st – July 25th
July 28th – August 1st
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August 18th – August 22nd
August 25th – August 29th
San Francisco
(415) 692-3434
June 2nd – June 6th
June 9th – June 13th
June 16th – June 20th
June 23rd – June 27th
July 7th – July 11th
July 14th – July 18th
July 21st – July 25th
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August 11 – August 15th