Planet Granite

Jun 242014
 

 Health & Wellness @Planet Granite

In Part 1 Caroline discussed shoulder health and listed out “The 4 Tests Every Climber Needs to Pass“. 

Now for Part 2 she shares with us her favorite exercises and stretches to prevent shoulder injuries and imbalances.

*Don’t miss Caroline’s special offer for PG Members! *

Schedule your first appointment with her during the month of June and receive 20% OFF your visit!

 ** The information in these articles are submitted by various professionals in the industry who are not employed by or representatives of Planet Granite.   If you have an injury or more questions regarding the topics addressed on our blog,  please consult a qualified medical practitioner.  Before beginning any fitness program, you should have a complete physical examination by your physician.**


 My Favorite Exercises for Climbers

Guest Post by Caroline Bourcier, MSPT

(Please note that ALL of these presume you have no injuries.)

1) Standing forward bend with shoulder stretch

Forward Bend

What it does - stretches the hamstrings, decompresses the low back & neck, and stretches the biceps and anterior delts. This helps prevent biceps and labral problems. (Note: this stretch is not for anyone with a history of anterior shoulder dislocations).

Hold for 30 seconds.

Goal - Able to rest chest on thighs with a slight knee bend, with your hands clasped and your shoulders >40 degrees behind your butt.

2) Sleeper stretch

Sleeper Stretch

What it does - Stretches the posterior capsule helping to prevent impingements and biceps tendonitis.

Hold for 3 sets of 20 seconds.

Goal - Forearm angle towards the floor in >70 degrees AND symmetrical right to left.

3) External Rotation Strengthening

Theraband Strengthening

What it does - Creates balance in the strength of the posterior to anterior muscles, helps prevent impingements and is the most important of the rotator cuff strengthening exercises.

Goal - 3 sets to fatigue or burning.

4) Plank to Side Plank and Back
Plank and Side Plank

What it does - This is a great exercise for training your entire core AND your shoulder blade stabilizers. Note that this is NOT a beginner exercise. If it feels too difficult to move through the sequence, break down each of the moves separately before putting them all together.

Goal - 5 sets of 15 second holds.

Parting Thoughts 

1.  Your exercise routine should never be what causes your injury. If it hurts, stop. If it hurts for more than two weeks seek out advice.

2.  Work out smarter, not harder. Focus on your weaknesses.

3.  Remember,“Things that matter most should never be at the mercy of things that matter least.” (Geothe)


*SPECIAL OFFER FOR PG MEMBERS*

Schedule your 1st appointment with Caroline during the month of June
and receive a special 20% OFF discount! 


Caroline

 

ABOUT - Caroline Bourcier, MSPT is the owner of Thrive Physical Therapy in Mill Valley, CA.  She has over 25 years experience in the fitness and physical therapy fields and is a former competitive and life-long athlete.

She is passionate about all activities in the outdoors, helping athletes stay young and injury free, and raising money and awareness for the Breast Cancer Fund.

She can be reached at (415) 497-6557 or Caroline@thrive-pt.com if you have any questions about aches and pains that are slowing you down.

Jun 162014
 

 

CRUX OF THE WEEK

Crux of the WeekBlue V4 @PG Sunnyvale

LOCATION:  Bouldering Slabs
SET BY: Danny (DH)
CLIMBER: Evan Pearce, Instructor @PG Sunnyvale

 

Jun 092014
 

 

SHOULDER PREHAB REHAB with Shannon

This WOW features 4 exercises to improve shoulder stability and strengthen core. 

Planet Granite Workout of the Week Logo

DIFFICULTY:  All levels
EQUIPMENT: TRX straps
FOCUS: Injury prevention, Warm-up, Stability, Core

 

 


*Want each WOW delivered to your inbox?

Sign up for WOW Click here to receive each new workout in your inbox!

 


 

Planet Granite Workout of the Week Logo

IMPORTANT: Climbing and climbing training, such as the exercises in the WOW, are inherently dangerous activities.  Participation in these exercises is done at your own risk.  If you have any injuries, we recommend you do not attempt a WOW.  If you have any concerns about your abilities or the exercises, consult a qualified medical practitioner or athletic trainer. Before using the fitness area, equipment, classes or any other training at Planet Granite, it is your responsibility to read and understand the posted gym rules and Safety Guidelines found here: http://www.planetgranite.com/climbing/training/training_safetyguidelines.php
Jun 022014
 

 

TIP OF THE WEEK

A popular piece of gear for sport climbers is a stick clip – a device that is attached to a painters pole that enables the climber to pre-clip the first bolt so as to reduce the risk of a ground fall. 

The Superclip is one of the few stick clips that can not only place the rope into a pre-existing draw, but also put up and take down a draw from a hanger. We find this device really useful when hitting up our local sport climbing crags!

Check out this quick tip video for the 3 ways the Superclip can be used.

The SuperClip is sold in all of our PG gear shops and PG Members get 10% OFF!

May 292014
 

 

Summer season in NorCal = Granite!

Whether you’re staying local and heading to Tuolumne or driving up north to Squamish, granite climbing is on the agenda.

Since our staff routinely crush on the weekends, we asked them to share a few of their favorite pieces of climbing gear.

All items mentioned are in stock now! Get to your local PG Gear Shop and get prepped for a summer of climbing on rocks.

*Remember, PG Members receive 10% OFF in our Gear Shop!*


Eliot 1

Eliot cruising on some Canadian granite in Squamish, BC.

ELIOT – Manager @PG San Francisco

5.10 ANASAZI PINKIES ($150  | $135*) –  “The Anasazi Blanco’s have been my go-to shoe since they stopped making the Pinkie’s in the early 2000′s. They are a similar style of shoe but when I heard they were re-leasing the Anasazi Pinkies, I was psyched to get a pair! I remembered the Pinkies from years ago as one of my first pair of climbing shoes. They perform exceptionally well on granite which is one of my favorite styles of climbing, especially in Yosemite.”

“I broke in my first pair over the weekend and they were awesome! They’re great for low angle to vertical slab and face climbing as well as crack climbing. This weekend I got on Freeblast on El Capitan on the 11b roof move and they edged really well. On the higher 10d/11a R section I was able to smear my way through the slabby crux.”

YOSEMITE BIG WALLS GUIDEBOOK - ($29.95  |  $26.96*) – “The new Yosemite Big Walls Guidebook is inexpensive and has great beta for your longer excursions in the valley! And many of the topos presented in the book are the first to come out about these routes.”

“Two PG members are also featured in the book which is really cool! Two of Lucho Rivera’s new free climbs – Romulan Warbird 5.12c on Fifi Buttress and Mahtah 5.12d on Liberty Cap (featured on the cover of Climbing Magazine’s April issue!) and Luke Stefurak’s new free climb on Liberty Cap Scarface 5.12.””

Abbey 1

Abbey standing on itty bitty footholds on the Kor Problem in Yosemite, CA.

ABBEY- Assistant Manager at PG San Francisco

LASPORTIVA WOMEN’S MIURA - ($160  |  $144*) - “The women’s Miura is my “send shoe”! These shoes fit my slim foot without the heel cup digging into my Achilles tendon like most men’s climbing shoes do. Also, they are perfectly aggressive without completely distorting my foot. Sportiva rubber is the best, and they last a surprisingly long time for how much I use them outdoors and indoors. The leather upper breaks in to mold to my foot perfectly and they wear really evenly. I’m on my 5th pair!”

“I’ve worn these for all types of climbing and I fit them pretty snugly so I haven’t had the best time on multi-pitch routes with them. Their best use for me is bouldering, and whenever I’ve done a heel hook on that Yosemite polished granite or am tip-toeing around on little slabby nothings I am singing their praises. That last tiny foot foot on “Funky Tut”? Trust it! Getting off the ground on “Green Wall Center”? Boom! Couldn’t do it without my Miura’s.”

Stephanie Rope

Stephanie enjoying the spanish rock with her Sterling 9.2 80m rope.  Sector Surgencia, Rodellar, Spain.

STEPHANIE - Sr. Director of Bay Area and Marketing

STERLING FUSION NANO 9.2MM ROPE -  (Prices range from $252.05  - $310.40 before Member discount.) – “For being a thin rope, the sheath is incredibly durable.  This has been our go to rope for climbing at Jailhouse, used for projecting the double extensions that are about 150 feet long.  We just took it on a 6 week climbing trip to Spain and it more than held up the entire trip. Just at the end, we needed to trim the ends since they showed some wear.  It handles well and is great for sport climbing!

“While the 80m version is a bit long for most of our local areas, the 70m would be perfect for trips to Tahoe and the sport areas of Tuolumne.  Due to its diameter, I would only recommend this rope for sport climbing.  But when you need something light and compact, it’s a great rope!”

Kalie 1

Kalie crimping down in Bishop,CA.

KALIE – Retail Buyer and Graphic Designer

WOMEN’S LORELLI BRA BY VERVE -  ($32 | $28.80*) – “The Verve Lorelli Bra is hands down my favorite sports bra, and I confess to owning five…! Not only is it flattering, supportive and  attractively designed, but it’s also handmade (by Grandma’s in CO) in the USA using organic cotton. It’s perfect for everything from climbing, to running and yoga and is a life saver for those hot bouldering days in Bishop and beyond.”

Jamila 1

Jamila climbing up high in Yosemite, CA.

JAMILA – Instructor and  Youth Team Coach at PG San Francisco

PATAGONIA ASCENSIONIST PACK 35L - ($149  | $134*) – “I bought this pack in orange and fell in love with it right away! The backbone curves nicely around my lower back which makes it super comfortable for long approaches. It was also one of the lightest packs out of the bunch that I looked at. There are a lot of places on the outside of the pack to secure gear, like the back or on the hip belt. And on hot days it doesn’t completely suffocate my back with sweat which is awesome! I ended buying one for my boyfriend because he fell in love with it as well.”

*Planet Granite Member’s price! Tax not included. 

May 282014
 

 Health & Wellness @Planet Granite

For this article in our Health & Wellness series we reached out to local physical therapist and athlete Caroline Bourcier.

With over 25 years of experience in the fitness and physical therapy fields, and a life-long athlete herself, she really has seen it all! Many members of our community have worked with her and raved about their experience. 

We contacted Caroline to get the scoop on shoulder health. 

How can we tell if we have an imbalance in our shoulders? 

 ** The information in these articles are submitted by various professionals in the industry who are not employed by or representatives of Planet Granite.   If you have an injury or more questions regarding the topics addressed on our blog,  please consult a qualified medical practitioner.  Before beginning any fitness program, you should have a complete physical examination by your physician.**


 The 4 Tests Every Climber Needs to Pass…
So You Can Climb Until You’re 80

Guest Post by Caroline Bourcier, MSPT

As a physical therapist I see a lot of climbers with shoulder injuries, especially in those above the age of thirty. Given the demands climbing places on the shoulder I’m always surprised when a climber is surprised that their shoulder is beginning to hurt.  Let me explain why…

The shoulder joint is persnickety – it requires balance to stay happy.

Specifically, the shoulder requires three things to stay injury free:

  1. Balance of strength in the posterior musculature relative to the anterior musculature
  2. Balance of flexibility/mobility in the muscles and connective tissue from front to back
  3. Sufficient coordination and timing of muscle recruitment in the arm and shoulder blade

Let’s break these down and see how this applies to you…

Test # 1

 Stand up and let your arms dangle at your sides. Now look down.

  • Which way are your palms are facing?
  • Do they face your thighs, your butt or somewhere in between?
  • Is one arm rotated inward more than the other?

Test 1
If they are facing anywhere but towards your thighs, you might be setting yourself up for an impingement.

Because climbing strengthens the lats and the pecs (both strong internal rotators) disproportionately, not only can these muscles become tight, their antagonists- the external rotators –can easily be overpowered.

In a shoulder with tight internal rotators, as you raise your arms above shoulder height, you have less space under the acromion for the rotator cuff and bursa. Done repeatedly, this can cause the supraspinatus (rotator cuff) or the bursa to be pinched and become inflamed. Chronically, it can cause tears in the rotator cuff.

Test # 2

Reach your left hand behind your back, touching the top of your right shoulder blade.

Can you reach your shoulder blade? If so, do you have any pinching or pain on the top of your shoulder?

Now reach your left hand behind your back as in the picture on the right and touch the bottom of your right shoulder blade.

  • Can you reach your shoulder blade?
  • Do you have pain in the front or the back of your shoulder?
  • Is your movement symmetrical in both shoulders?

Test 2
These two tests require full mobility of your shoulders to their end ranges of motion- flexion and external rotation in the first example and extension and internal rotation in the second.

Keep these flexible and you’ll ward off rotator cuff impingement, biceps tendonitis and chronic labral tears (keep reading to find out how).

If you have pain or pinching in the top or front of your shoulder you may want to consult with a physical therapist to have them mobilize your joint capsule.  Normal joint mechanics are essential to long term health and injury prevention, especially in the shoulder.

Test # 3

Place your right hand on top of your left shoulder, then raise your right elbow as high as you can towards the ceiling.

  • Do you have any pain in the top or front of your shoulder?

Test 3

While the first two tests are looking for ideal mobility to prevent impingements and other injuries, this test is more sensitive and suggests a problem may already exist.

If this reproduces a familiar pain that occurs during or after climbing and has persisted for more than two weeks, you should consider seeking out professional advice.

 Test # 4

Test # 4 With your right elbow bent 90 degrees, grasp your right wrist with your left hand.

Keeping your elbow glued to your waist, push your forearm outward to the right, resisting with your opposite hand.  Do this with a maximum effort.

  • Does it feel weak or painful?

While this is not a perfect test, it is a quick look at your posterior rotator cuff muscles. The importance of keeping these muscles strong should never be underestimated.

Almost every shoulder problem is helped by strengthening your external rotators!

The Bottom Line

Whether it’s your shoulder or any other body part that’s giving you grief, the best use of your exercise time is to:

  1. Strengthen what’s weak 
  2. Stretch what’s tight

It really is that simple.

We tend to want to do what we are good at and avoid those things we are not good at.

But it’s working on our weaknesses that makes us well-rounded athletes and keeps us injury free.  Oftentimes, just adding a 10 minute routine to the beginning or end of your climbing can keep you injury free – through the decades…

*STAY TUNED FOR PART 2 -
CAROLINE’S FAVORITE  STRETCHES & EXERCISES FOR CLIMBERS*

 


*SPECIAL OFFER FOR PG MEMBERS*

Schedule your 1st appointment with Caroline during the month of June
and receive a special 20% OFF discount! 


Caroline

 

ABOUT - Caroline Bourcier, MSPT is the owner of Thrive Physical Therapy in Mill Valley, CA.  She has over 25 years experience in the fitness and physical therapy fields and is a former competitive and life-long athlete.

She is passionate about all activities in the outdoors, helping athletes stay young and injury free, and raising money and awareness for the Breast Cancer Fund.

She can be reached at (415) 497-6557 or Caroline@thrive-pt.com if you have any questions about aches and pains that are slowing you down.