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Planet Granite

Apr 142014
 

 

SIGNATURE YOGA WORKSHOP FOR CLIMBERS

Saturday, April 26th, from 1:45 – 3:45pm

 

 

Together with climbers at Planet Granite (and as a climber herself!), Silvie has created a signature workshop that is designed to teach you how to use yoga to supplement your climbing by stretching and centering.

In this workshop you’ll learn a sequence of postures that target the opposing muscles from climbing.

*You’ll also go home with a tips handout to use before and after climbing!

$30 Non-members
$25 Members

*TO REGISTER, email Silvie: silvieshibdon@gmail.com

*Learn more about Silvie and her practice HERE. 

*REGISTER EARLY, PREVIOUS WORKSHOP SOLD OUT!*

Apr 142014
 

 

COMPRESSION FOR CRUSHING with Justin

This WOW strengthens your chest and shoulders in prep for compression style boulder problems.

Planet Granite Workout of the Week Logo

TIME: 20 – 30 minutes
DIFFICULTY:  All levels
EQUIPMENT: System board, climbing shoes/chalk, and the Fly Machine
FOCUS: Contact and Compression Strength

 

*EXERCISE 1 – PINCHES ON THE SYSTEM BOARD

STEP 1. Position the board to an angle you feel comfortable on. Identify two pinches that are somewhat challenging for you to hold on to.

STEP 2. Keep only your right foot on, close to hip level. Now move your left hand to the second pinch.

STEP 3. Hold for 10 – 15 seconds then move back to the first pinch. Hold for 10-15 seconds as well.

STEP 4. Continue this back and forth movement.

STEP 5. Switch to the other side of the board to focus on the opposite arm.

GOAL – Aim for at least 5 complete rotations.

*EXERCISE 2 – THE PINCH LADDER

STEP 1. Identify multiple rows of pinches going up the systems board.

STEP 2. Choose medium sized footholds that are close to hip level.

STEP 3. Now begin to grab each row of pinches, alternating between hands. Aim to grab each hold for 3-5 seconds.

STEP 4. Maintain a square position at all times– no drop knees or twisting your hips!

STEP 5. Once you are at the top, reverse the movement back to the starting holds.

GOAL – 1 Set = up and down | Aim to complete at least 5

*EXERCISE 3 – THE FLY MACHINE

STEP 1. Choose a weight that is easy for you to start with.

STEP 2. As you pull the bars together, keep your shoulder blades down, maintaining good posture at all times.

STEP 3. Keep your core tight. Your chest muscles should be doing the work.

GOAL – 1 set = 10 reps  |  4 sets


*Want each WOW delivered to your inbox?

Sign up for WOW Click here to receive an email every Monday with a brand new workout!

 


 

Planet Granite Workout of the Week Logo

IMPORTANT: Climbing and climbing training, such as the exercises in the WOW, are inherently dangerous activities.  Participation in these exercises is done at your own risk.  If you have any injuries, we recommend you do not attempt a WOW.  If you have any concerns about your abilities or the exercises, consult a qualified medical practitioner or athletic trainer. Before using the fitness area, equipment, classes or any other training at Planet Granite, it is your responsibility to read and understand the posted gym rules and Safety Guidelines found here: http://www.planetgranite.com/climbing/training/training_safetyguidelines.php
Apr 102014
 


As part of our Health & Wellness series, we reached out to San Francisco’s sports and clinical massage studioPsoas Massage + Bodywork.  

We know the PG community likes to ‘work hard and play hard‘, and we wanted Psoas to give us a few quick tips on staying injury & pain free while doing what we love with climbing, yoga and fitness. 

In this video, Scott Schwartz, co-founder of Psoas, walks us through a rotation of 7 exercises to increase range of motion and stability in the shoulders.

It only takes about a minute and half to complete and it’s an awesome way to warm-up and protect your shoulders!

 ** The information in these articles are submitted by various  professionals in the industry who are not employed by or representatives of Planet Granite.   If you have an injury or more questions regarding the topics addressed on our blog,  please consult a qualified medical practitioner.  Before beginning any fitness program, you should have a complete physical examination by your physician.**


Who needs this exercise?

Rock climbers especially, but this will benefit mostly anyone!

This shouldn’t be painful, it should only be mildly challenging.

Note: if you are experiencing severe pain or numbness and tingling in your arms and hands please see a professional before attempting this or other exercises. If you feel excess pain during it, discontinue until checking with a professional. 

Apr 072014
 

 

THE PUSH PULL AT THE BAR with Himanshu

 This full body workout strengthens your arms, back, hips and also improves your core stability. 

Planet Granite Workout of the Week Logo

TIME: 20 – 30 minutes
DIFFICULTY:  All levels
EQUIPMENT: Stability ball, a dumbbell, power band & TRX straps
FOCUS: Strength, Stability, Core

 

*Want each WOW delivered to your inbox?

Sign up for WOW Click here to receive an email every Monday with a brand new workout!

 


 

Planet Granite Workout of the Week Logo

IMPORTANT: Climbing and climbing training, such as the exercises in the WOW, are inherently dangerous activities.  Participation in these exercises is done at your own risk.  If you have any injuries, we recommend you do not attempt a WOW.  If you have any concerns about your abilities or the exercises, consult a qualified medical practitioner or athletic trainer. Before using the fitness area, equipment, classes or any other training at Planet Granite, it is your responsibility to read and understand the posted gym rules and Safety Guidelines found here: http://www.planetgranite.com/climbing/training/training_safetyguidelines.php
Mar 312014
 

 

Planet Granite Sponsors Outward Bound as part of PG Gives Back!

City Skyline

Last week, local celebrities, politicians, and nearly one hundred San Franciscans (and 4 Planet Granite Managers!), took part in the City Skyline Challenge – a free-hanging rappel 230 feet from the roof of the Hyatt Regency at 5 Embarcadero Center.

Even for the most seasoned of climbers, it was a unique experience!

“It was definitely the most unique rappel I have done since it was free hanging and so beautifully exposed! I mean really, what a way to look at Market Street!” said Kalie Patterson, a Project Assistant at Planet Granite.

Jacquelyn Moore, PG Project Manager, described the event as “Fantastic from start to finish! I’ve always loved heights from years of climbing so getting the chance to rappel off a building in the middle of SF was a special treat. Best way to start a Friday!” 

Kalie & Brian

Kalie and Brian taking in the view while getting geared up. Kalie holding on tight!

The City Skyline Challenge event raised funding for Outward Bound scholarship programs. Each participant donated a minimum of $1500 for the chance to rappel (check out their 23 Stories of Change leading up to the event).

Planet Granite, a participating sponsor, donated $20,000 to Outward Bound’s scholarship program for low-income students in California!

This donation was made as part of the PG Gives Back Program ‘$1 per member per month’. 

Jackie & Abbey

Jackie taking the first step off!  Abbey and Jackie enjoying the ride down. 

Outward Bound is on a mission to change lives through challenge and discovery. Their adventure-based education programs are known world-wide for using boundary-pushing experiences to teach strength of character, leadership and a desire to serve the greater good. 

In 2008, Outward Bound launched its first West Coast urban-based “Center” in San Francisco (“Bay Area Center”) following the successful establishment of other Centers in Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, New York and Philadelphia in the 1980s and 1990s. Urban-based Centers reach more under-served urban youth populations through a menu of programs that promote personal transformation using the natural and historical settings of cities and their surrounding areas.
(Learn more about Outward Bound here.)

Through the support of donors like Planet Granite, they have engaged more than 4,000 students since 2008 with life-changing experiential education programs in both wilderness and urban settings!

Celebrity rappellers included David Chiu (San Francisco Board of Supervisors President), Lou Seal (mascot for the SF Giants), Phil Ginsburg (General Manager – San Francisco Recreation and Parks), Guy McIntyre (former 49er Offensive Linesman and 3X Super Bowl Champion), California Senator Mark Leno, and KNBR Sports anchor Kate Scott.

Both days of the event went smoothly with clear skies, beautiful views of the bay and many happy faces.

*Stay tuned for next year!* 

Sponsors of this year’s event included: Planet Granite, Wells Fargo, Hyatt Regency, 7×7, Fort Point Capital, the St. Francis Foundation, Aspiriant, PR and Company, and Organic Events.

Photo credit: Rikki Dunn and Outward Bound

Mar 312014
 

 

As part of our Health & Wellness series @PG, we asked local climber and chiropractor Natasha Barnes to share her thoughts on spinal health and preventing climbing-related injuries.

In her first article, Climber Posture, Dr. Barnes gave us 2 ways to test for dysfunctional posture.

She also presented a very convincing case on why postural health should be something ALL climbers and athletes focus on, perhaps even on a daily basis!  

Now in Part 2 we are given the tools to start addressing these imbalances! First step – MOBILITY.

Scroll down to get started! 

 ** The information in these articles are submitted by various  professionals in the industry who are not employed by or representatives of Planet Granite.   If you have an injury or more questions regarding the topics addressed on our blog,  please consult a qualified medical practitioner.  Before beginning any fitness program, you should have a complete physical examination by your physician.**


MOBILITY.

Proper postural alignment is the basis of all movement. If your posture sucks, your movement suffers and you might get hurt.

Fix your posture and you’ve just taken a huge step in unlocking the full athletic potential of your body! You may also avoid some injuries along the way.

Gray Cook, the founder of Functional Movement Systems, talks about a “joint-by-joint approach” when it comes to the body.

Every joint in the body has a purpose. Some joints are designed for stability, while others are designed for mobility. When a joint is forced, injured, or restricted, it will affect the joints above and below it. Mobility and stability are organized in the body in an every-other joint fashion. The ankles need mobility, the knees require stability, hips need mobility, lumbar spine (low back) needs stability, thoracic spine (mid-back) needs mobility, scapula (shoulder blade) needs stability, and the gleno-humeral joint (shoulder) needs mobility.

The thoracic spine has a tendency towards stiffness. Poor posture is the main cause of this. When the thoracic spine becomes stiff, the areas above and below are affected.

When the thoracic spine is restricted, the scapula is placed in a compromised position. A scapula in a compromised position affects the rotator cuff. If you looked at your shoulder pain as just shoulder pain you may focus only on shoulder correctives.

You may never work on your thoracic spine and will wonder why your shoulder pain is not going away!

*Are you starting to understand why you need to pay attention to posture?

*Did you fail any of the self tests in Part 1 of this blog?  Even if you didn’t you might want to keep reading so that you can learn some things you can do to help prevent future injury.

photo 1

Say hello to your new best friend, the double lacrosse ball. Just tape two lacrosse balls together width wise and length wise with wide climbing tape.

Where do we start? MOBILITY.

Corrective work needs to be done everyday. In Dr. Kelly Starret’s book, Becoming a Supple Leopard, he says, “When it comes to mobility there are no off days.” To make change in the affected tissues consistent work must be done. It doesn’t have to take a lot of time. Fifteen minutes a day is enough!

Lacrosse ball smash #1: 

For this drill you will need two lacrosse balls taped together or a foam roller.

  1. Place lacrosse balls at the start of your thoracic spine (the area just below your neck).
  2. Fold your arms across your body (give your self a big hug!).
  3. Start to bridge over the balls holding for a second then returning to the starting position.
  4. Spend some time at each segment working down your back until you reach your lumbar spine.

photo 2

Lacrosse ball smash #2: 

 For this drill you will need a single lacrosse ball and a wall. 

  1. Place a lacrosse ball in your upper pec area while leaning your chest into the wall.
  2. Place your arm in external rotation and roll below the clavicle between your shoulder and sternum.

photo 3
photo 4

Thoracic spine mobility drill: EXTENSION

For this drill you will need a bench and a dowel. 

  1. Sit on your knees in front of a bench sitting back on your heels.
  2. Place your elbows on the bench (optional: hold a dowel in both of your hands).
  3. Gently round your mid-back and hold for 3 seconds.
  4. Then arch your mid-back and stick your chest out towards the ground, hold for at least 5 seconds.
  5. Return to the rounded position and repeat for 10 sets. Remember to breath!
photo 1 (2)

Starting position, rounded.

photo 5

Ending position, extended.

Thoracic spine mobility drill: ROTATION

  1. Start on the ground on your side.
  2. Stack your shoulders so they are lined up.
  3. Bring your top arm overhead and behind you.
  4. Return to the starting position and repeat for 10 reps
  5. Repeat on the other side.
  6. Remember to breath!
photo 2 (2)

Starting position.

photo 3 (2)

Ending position. I’m tight!

Great! Now that we’ve gotten mobilization out of the way, how do we get our postural muscles working properly?…

**STAY TUNED FOR PART 3 – STRENGTHENING*

**REMEMBER: Do not hesitate to contact a professional if you’re struggling with any pain or discomfort brought on by bad posture or movement patterns!**


Natasha bio picture
Dr. Barnes graduated in 2012 from Palmer Chiropractic West and is currently practicing at Chiro-Medical Group in San Francisco. Her practice focuses on sports medicine and injury prevention. She takes an evidence-based, functional approach to patient care. She utilizes an active care model that is patient focused and outcome oriented, empowering patients to participate in their care.

Dr. Barnes has been a professional athlete since 2001 and still participates in national and international level rock climbing competitions year round. She is sponsored by PrAna, Five Ten, Revolution and Smith Optics. She is a former National Champion, a Teva Games gold medalist and has earned a spot on the US World Cup Bouldering and Sport Climbing Team multiple years. She knows what it is like training and performing at a high level and dealing with injury.

Follow Dr. Natasha Barnes on Twitter and visit her professional climbing blog here.