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Apr 142014
 

 

COMPRESSION FOR CRUSHING with Justin

This WOW strengthens your chest and shoulders in prep for compression style boulder problems.

Planet Granite Workout of the Week Logo

TIME: 20 – 30 minutes
DIFFICULTY:  All levels
EQUIPMENT: System board, climbing shoes/chalk, and the Fly Machine
FOCUS: Contact and Compression Strength

 

*EXERCISE 1 – PINCHES ON THE SYSTEM BOARD

STEP 1. Position the board to an angle you feel comfortable on. Identify two pinches that are somewhat challenging for you to hold on to.

STEP 2. Keep only your right foot on, close to hip level. Now move your left hand to the second pinch.

STEP 3. Hold for 10 – 15 seconds then move back to the first pinch. Hold for 10-15 seconds as well.

STEP 4. Continue this back and forth movement.

STEP 5. Switch to the other side of the board to focus on the opposite arm.

GOAL – Aim for at least 5 complete rotations.

*EXERCISE 2 – THE PINCH LADDER

STEP 1. Identify multiple rows of pinches going up the systems board.

STEP 2. Choose medium sized footholds that are close to hip level.

STEP 3. Now begin to grab each row of pinches, alternating between hands. Aim to grab each hold for 3-5 seconds.

STEP 4. Maintain a square position at all times– no drop knees or twisting your hips!

STEP 5. Once you are at the top, reverse the movement back to the starting holds.

GOAL – 1 Set = up and down | Aim to complete at least 5

*EXERCISE 3 – THE FLY MACHINE

STEP 1. Choose a weight that is easy for you to start with.

STEP 2. As you pull the bars together, keep your shoulder blades down, maintaining good posture at all times.

STEP 3. Keep your core tight. Your chest muscles should be doing the work.

GOAL – 1 set = 10 reps  |  4 sets


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IMPORTANT: Climbing and climbing training, such as the exercises in the WOW, are inherently dangerous activities.  Participation in these exercises is done at your own risk.  If you have any injuries, we recommend you do not attempt a WOW.  If you have any concerns about your abilities or the exercises, consult a qualified medical practitioner or athletic trainer. Before using the fitness area, equipment, classes or any other training at Planet Granite, it is your responsibility to read and understand the posted gym rules and Safety Guidelines found here: http://www.planetgranite.com/climbing/training/training_safetyguidelines.php

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