INTRO: *Improving your Contact strength and Deadpointing skills is a great way to bump up your level of climbing and bouldering! This WOW will get you started.
*Contact Strength refers to one’s ability to grasp a hold with maximum strength “on contact.” Many climbers have to “ramp” their strength a bit each time they grab a new hold.
*A Deadpoint is a dynamic climbing technique in which the hold is grabbed at the apex of your upward motion.
*Climbing Magazine describes a Deadpoint as the high point—the moment of weightlessness—achieved by a dynamic move upward, whether or not the body completely separates from the rock; or a movement that incorporates this type of lunge, with the feet typically not leaving the rock (as they do in an all out dyno).
*GOAL – 5 reps = 1 set | Take only 30 sec rests between sets!
Aim to complete at least 5 sets.
STEP 1. This wow is performed at the systems board. To start out keep the board close to vertical, maybe around 15 degrees
STEP 2. Grab on to a medium to large sized starting hold with both hands. Jug are usually at the bottom of the board.
*You want your body in a square or frog position with footholds that are medium sized.
*Resist the urge to twist your hips or knees when moving up and down between holds.
*Choose 2 identical holds higher up to grab with both hands. Switch it up between pinches, slopers and crimps throughout your session.
STEP 3. Now dynamically grab the next holds with both hands simultaneously and quickly return back down to the start hold.
STEP 4. Repeat without taking your feet off the board, at least 5 times up and down.
*As these become easier, begin to decrease the size of the target hand holds and choose smaller footholds that require more effort to push on.
*Then begin to adjust the angle of the systems board, making it more of an overhang rather than vertical.
*Finally, add-in a weight belt for maximum training!
*Check the video for demonstrations of both these variations!
*TWO HANDS TO THE SAME HOLD – Grab the same hold with both hands and then quickly return to the starting hold.
*ONE HAND CLUTCHES – To target one arm at a time, try one handed clutches. These are more advanced.
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