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Jan 072014


 2 exercises to improve finger and lock-off strength. 

Planet Granite Workout of the Week Logo

TIME: 10-15 minutes
DIFFICULTY: Intermediate to Advanced
EQUIPMENT: Campus Board
FOCUS: Power and Strength

INTRO:  Training at the campus board is THE way to target dynamic coordination, finger strength & lock-off power in your shoulders! *These 2 exercises are a great introduction to the type of body positioning you need to maintain while moving on the board. 

PREP: **Your shoulders, fingers and elbows should be healthy with no injuries, pain, tweaks or inflammation!

**Complete a thorough warm-up beforehand with cardio, stretching and easy climbing. 

**Campus board training is best performed on a non-climbing day followed by a rest day.

Eliot 2
1. Choose a rung with a size of hold that is comfortable for your hand strength.

2. Grab the rung with both hands in a open-handed, slightly crimped position. No pinching on the bottom of the rung with your thumb!

3. Contract your core and keep your shoulders and mid-back engaged.

Eliot 1

STEP 1. Pull-up quickly and grab each rung above you, alternating between left and right hands. *No matching! Movement should be precise and controlled.

STEP 2. When you get to the top, jump down to the mat.

STEP 3. Now perform the same movement leading with the opposite hand.



Steps 1 and 2


STEP 2. Move left hand up to the first rung above you.


Steps 3 and 4

STEP 3. Without pausing, quickly move your left hand up again.

STEP 4. Bump up again as many times as you can! Repeat moves for your right hand.

GOAL: 3-5 reps for each arm = 1 set  *REST: 1-3 minutes between sets

**Do as many sets as you can, while still feeling strong and maintaining good posture and hand positioning.**


-To increase difficulty- Try to skip rungs in between hand movements. Add more reps to each set and decrease rest time.

-To decrease difficulty- Imitate these movements by standing on a chair or plyo box. This is still a very effective way of improving finger strength and coordination!


*Resist the urge to swing your legs to help yourself perform these movements!

*Always maintain an open-hand position- never crimping. 

*To track your progress, consider using a small notebook or diary to record the sequence of rungs you were able to navigate successfully. 


ABOUT ELIOT CARLSEN- MANAGER @PG SF-  A native of Sonoma, Eliot’s dad introduced him to camping, backpacking and mountaineering at an early age.  After taking a rock-climbing course in Leavenworth, Washington, he immediately became hooked. While studying the last few years at UC San Diego, Eliot made the granite laden foothills of Mt. Woodson a home away from home. He’s always looking for enthusiastic climbers to share a rope or crash pad.


Planet Granite Workout of the Week Logo

IMPORTANT: Climbing and climbing training, such as the exercises in the WOW, are inherently dangerous activities.  Participation in these exercises is done at your own risk.  If you have any injuries, we recommend you do not attempt a WOW.  If you have any concerns about your abilities or the exercises, consult a qualified medical practitioner or athletic trainer. Before using the fitness area, equipment, classes or any other training at Planet Granite, it is your responsibility to read and understand the posted gym rules and Safety Guidelines found here:

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