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Dec 232013
 

WORKIN’ THE WALL with Jamila

A rotation of 3 exercises that focus on increasing finger strength and endurance. 

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TIME: 10-15 minutes
DIFFICULTY: Beginner to Intermediate
EQUIPMENT: Climbing shoes, chalk 
GOAL: Train at maximum extension at the Systems Wall

INTRODUCTION:  Climbing ‘big’ is super helpful for indoor and outdoor climbing! *The positions in this WOW put you at maximum extension while climbing on the Systems Wall. *Maintaining a strong grip and tight core when you’re doing a long move is an important skill to have.

PREP: *For ALL 3 exercises, make sure the hand-holds you choose require some effort to hold on to! The starting holds will always be the largest holds of the bunch. *ALL feet and hand positions will be wide and you should be stretched out to your limit when grabbing the final holds. 

**FIRST THINGS FIRST- Adjust the Systems Board to a comfortable level.**

START WITH – THE LADDER TWIST

Ladder with circles

HOW-TO:

Step 1. Identify 3 sets of matching hand holds that go up the wall and choose medium-sized foot chips.

Step 2. Grab good sized starting hand-holds at shoulder height. Pull on!

Step 3. Keeping your feet on the foot chips, move up and grab each hold, alternating between left and right hand. Twist your hips!

Ladders with captions

Step 4. Once you grab the final holds, reverse the moves back down, grabbing each hold along the way.  

GOAL Repeat for both sides at least 5 times. No rest in between. 

NEXT STEP – BUMP IT OUT

Bump it out with circles

HOW-TO:

Step 1. Choose 4 holds that go out in a horizontal line, decreasing in size with the final hold the most difficult to grab.

Step 2. Pull up and onto the starting holds with feet wide on medium-sized foot chips.

Step 3. Moving quickly, bump your left hand out and grab each hold until you’re at your limit of reach on the final hold. 

Step 4. Bring your left hand back to the starting hold.
Bump it out  with captions

Step 5.  Reverse the moves for your right side.

GOAL – Repeat for both sides at least 5 times. No rest in between. 

FINISHING UP WITH – THE LOCK-OFF

The Lock-off

HOW-TO:

Step 1. Choose good sized starting holds and a far away finishing hold. 

Step 2. With only your left foot on the wall, reach up to the finishing hold with your left hand.

Step 3. Don’t grab it! Instead hover your hand very close to it and count for 2-3 seconds. 

Step 4. Lower down to the start hold, and Repeat the moves in Step 3. 
Lock-off  2-  with four captions

Step 5. On your 3rd go, reach up and finally grab the hold. Grip it for 2-3 seconds.  

Step 6. Return to the start hold and repeat the moves with your right hand. 

GOAL - Repeat for both sides at least 5 times. No rests in between.

VARIATIONS:  

*To increase the difficulty-  Wear a weighted vest during the exercises, choose smaller holds, or increase the reps.

*To decrease the intensity-  Choose larger sized holds that are closer together and rest between your attempts.

TIPS:

*The movement should be controlled at all times. 

*Remember to use your body positioning to your advantage, using your hips and pushing down hard with your feet to stay on the wall. 

*To make the most out of these 3 exercises, keep the hand and foot holds at your limit with maximum arm extension.

Jamila Bio

 

AUTHOR: Jamila, a San Francisco native, is an avid climber and time piece aficionado. Outside of the climbing world, you can find her designing clothes and accessories as a self-taught seamstress, embellishing canvas with a brush, or manically studying to become your future Dietician.

 

 

 

 

 

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IMPORTANT: Climbing and climbing training, such as the exercises in the WOW, are inherently dangerous activities.  Participation in these exercises is done at your own risk.  If you have any injuries, we recommend you do not attempt a WOW.  If you have any concerns about your abilities or the exercises, consult a qualified medical practitioner or athletic trainer. Before using the fitness area, equipment, classes or any other training at Planet Granite, it is your responsibility to read and understand the posted gym rules and Safety Guidelines found here: http://www.planetgranite.com/climbing/training/training_safetyguidelines.php

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