Earlier this year, the local and national climbing community came together to support our local sport climbing crag, Jailhouse Rock. In just 15 days, we raised over $23,000 with Planet Granite’s $10,000 match!
Now it’s time to put some of that money to use! On Saturday, November 12th, join the Access Fund and many local climbers as we build a parking lot, lay down fencing and prep the old climber’s access trail for regrowth. Everyone is welcome – let’s do this!
The below was taken from the Access Fund’s Jailhouse page.
Please join us for an Adopt a Crag at Jailhouse November 12, 2011. Starting November 12, 2011, parking and access will change. See below for a new map, driving directions, and the gate code.
The Access Fund acquired a conservation easement and access easement on the Jailhouse Rock property in 2010 when access was threatened by an impending housing development. Although the property is still privately owned, the Access Fund-held easements guarantee climbing access into perpetuity. Jailhouse Rock boasts up to 200 feet of overhanging amphitheater on the western face of a basalt lava flow known locally as Table Rock. Jailhouse Rock is a major resource for the Bay Area, Yosemite, and Sacramento climbing communities during the fall, winter, and spring months when other sport crags are covered in snow.
Although popular, climbers had previously kept a “no guidebook, no publicity” policy at the request of the private landowners, who have quietly allowed climbing access over the last 12 years.
In 2010, an impending subdivision which included the trailhead and initial approach trail threatened future access to Jailhouse. Plans to further subdivide the land adjacent to Jailhouse could have blocked access even further, since the trail would need to cross multiple new lots purchased by private landowners who may be less inclined to grant public access.
With the future access to Jailhouse at risk, local climber and long-time access supporter Tom Addison contacted the Access Fund and the landowner for help. After several months of working with the landowners, the Access Fund reached an agreement to protect Jailhouse Rock through a complex conservation development partnership. A short-term $100,000 Access Fund Land Conservation Campaign loan secured a conservation and access easement, ensuring permanent protection and access to Jailhouse Rock.
Located near Sonora, California, Jailhouse Rock is in western Tuolumne County above the Stanislaus River between Lake Tulloch and New Melones Reservoirs. It is approximately two hours east of the Bay Area, and about an hour and a half west of Yosemite. An access easement provides access to the 75-acre conservation easement, which includes the developed cliffline, a half mile of waterfront, and a buffer along the top of the mesa. For directions, please see the Access Fund Jailhouse Page.
|Land Steward||Tom Addison, TAddison@baaqmd.gov|
|Conservation Easement||>Download PDF|
|Rules & Restrictions||• No dogs on the property
• Close all gates (typically there are over 200 head of horses on the property, and it is critical that they do not escape)
• No amplified music
• No fires
• No camping at the cliff, trailhead, or anywhere in the vicinity
• Access allowed only from sun-up to one hour after sundown
• No littering
• Seasonal raptor closures on a portion of cliff line may be posted if there is active raptor nesting.
• Do not park outside the gate alongside O’Byrnes Ferry Road